modifing my stainless steel downrigger weights a little

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dragonfly

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Messages
495
Location
newberg, oregon
I am in the process of building a bunch of downrigger weights I am making the angle of the point steeper and removing the weld bead and polishing them smooth and thought I would show you how I do it. they end up being about 8.6 lbs, 1 1/2 in dia. the SS tube is 12'' and when done and fit nicely in the rocket launchers when moving around the lake for convenience. I point mine for 2 reasons first for streamlining to cut the water and track better second to help from hanging up when drug on the bottom.
I make the SS end pieces on the lathe
df0q.jpg

then cut into for the top and bottom, drill and tap
iy08.jpg

bbje.jpg

here are some of the ruff pieces ready for assembly
xv67.jpg

next tig the ends on to the SS tube and turn off on the lathe
y7ev.jpg

and ruff polish with brown scotch brite. here are the various steps the far left is ready for lead and final polish
1y2g.jpg

pouring the lead
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and the finished weight ready for use
mkg4.jpg

if you have never used stick weights they for me any how are the way to go, you can use less weight with the same or less blow back as a 10 lb ball. and I point mine so you don't have to worry as much about hanging up like you do balls and when fishing stumpy or logged reservoirs and loosing track of depth they will usually pull thru most stuff on the bottom and I have never lost one, even when tomahawking or intentionally dragging them for macks I am a lot harder on them than most people. the hardest problem right now is finding lead cheep enough (side note not all 15 lb cannon balls are solid lead I unfortunately bought 2 to melt down only to find they have a cast iron core about 3 1/2'' in dia. but the guy gave me back the difference when I told him) any way here are some ideas for you. dfly
 
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nicely done. looks like you got enough equipment in that garage to built another boat. The problem is you loose one you might see a tear in your eye so much energy to make the perfect STICK WEIGHT/great idea
 
I got an e-mail last weekend asking about a lighter weight, in the 5-6 lb range for the guys with manual downriggers so they could have the same benefits of a stick weight and some bling laugh hyst. so I turned one out real quick, out of solid 1 1/2 SS and it came out to 5.3 lbs for him to try. I will let you know what he thinks
here's a pic of the little guy with some of the others polished. dfly
pm6o.jpg
 
With the thought in mind that this shape of downrigger pipe causes less resistance than balls, have you tried a mounting point in the center so they go through the water like a torpedo? There may need to be rear fins for direction.
 
clawman never saw a reason for sideways they don't have that much drag and they trac great. one of the main reasons for making them the way I do is to help minimize hanging up on the bottom, so they easily pull over roots, branches, rocks, stumps and what ever else is down there. especially in stumpy lakes like Wickiup, Greenpeter, Detroit etc., whether it's by accident or intentional like when tapping/dragging for mac's. by hanging in the middle or adding a fin it turns them into a potential wedge. and when drug would be worse than a ball weight, when dragging the bottom sideways, so that is why I make them this way. dfly
 
And the reason I went to this style was because my sonar kept locking onto the weight and reading it as bottom. Hung in the vertical, the 1 1/2" top is the surface the beam sees rather than a foot + long hunk of metal.
 
thanx David, nice to put a face with a member you will have them for many years as long as you can keep guys from wanting to 'borrow' them thanx again dfly
 
Have you checked your e-mail recently? I've sent posts both P. M. and e-Mail to try and hook up in Feb. to buy or trade a couple of these weights. You told me last summer that you would make some for me, no response. I still have that good lead you are having trouble finding ,if you are at all interested. I almost brought it to the local scrap dealer but decided against it as it is quality lead. My wife and I are going to Eugene in Feb. for a show maybe we can work something out. Bob R P. S., just realized this is the same old post, if anyone has a way to contact Shawn please do so, shouldn't advertise on a forum and not respond to potential customers.
 

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