Colored Downrigger weights

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AFDan52

AFDan52

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
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Location
Harrisville , Utah
I was reading the post on Downrigger weights that some prefer, here is something else to ponder. Does anyone use any other color on their weights besides Black? If so what colors and does it really matter/movie
 
I started out with black then switched to lime green for a few years until the coating wore off. I re-coated them with red for the last half of the season this year. The lime green worked better for me than the black or red.

I am going to wait until July next summer to really see if there is a difference between the green and red since I didn't get a full season in on the red.

I am not sure why the color makes a difference, but I am just as curious as AFDan to find out. movie
 
I go by the school of thought that it's the little things that make a difference, and the more attraction the better. When I first started kok fishing around 6 years ago, I used a 6lb. black ball. A year or two later I got into the use of holographic tapes, and covered the ball with the colors blue, green, and chartreuse for attraction at depth. I'm not sure if it was that or becoming more knowledgeable about kokanee, but it sure didn't seem to hurt the catch rate! I have since gone to 8lb. balls, and covered them with a few different silver holographic tapes. After last season, the catch rate was still good, but seemed to take a bit longer than the prior year. I'm going to add a few spots of the colors mentioned above for more contrast to see if that makes a difference. I should point out I mainly use a short set-back, and use ball trolls up to mid day. That's what has worked for me, looking forward to see what others opinions are on this. I've wondered myself what is more popular... try to hide the ball, or use it to attract?
 
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When I started to fish for kokes I used a black ball be since I changed to a white ball my catch ratio has been better.I believe that they are attractions to any type of fish.I am going to try a new color this summer and maybe it will be the holograph colors.And maybe blue.
 
As long as there not blue balls I don't care. Actually I started out with black fish weights and now I use green pancakes. I think they act like an attractor of sorts so the deeper the fish can see it the better. I also think that adding some type of tape also wouldn't hurt.
 
We started out with black pancakes, moved onto green pankakes, white pancakes, and even tried black fish shaped weights. Right now we are using 12# pancakes in silver, white, and yes... even a couple of blues. You know, if it werent for those damned macs at the Gorge we wouldnt lose so many! Oh well. For what its worth, the pancakes dont seem to hang up on the bottom as easily as the fish shaped ones.

With all of that said, I've never noticed a big difference in catch rates based on color of weight. I have used ball trolls a few times with success though. I guess if you're going to fish close to the weight, you might as well make the weight flashy and attractive.
 
Digi-Troller said:
We started out with black pancakes, moved onto green pankakes, white pancakes, and even tried black fish shaped weights. Right now we are using 12# pancakes in silver, white, and yes... even a couple of blues. You know, if it werent for those damned macs at the Gorge we wouldnt lose so many! Oh well. For what its worth, the pancakes dont seem to hang up on the bottom as easily as the fish shaped ones.

With all of that said, I've never noticed a big difference in catch rates based on color of weight. I have used ball trolls a few times with success though. I guess if you're going to fish close to the weight, you might as well make the weight flashy and attractive.
Click to expand...

What kind of terminal gear are you using for the Macks? I am comming to the Gorge in June & never fished for them.
Thanks ..Kokonuts thumbsup
 
I've seen some orange ones on the derby circuit but no red ones... of course people get a bit secretive derby day and we usually are starting in near dark conditions... :)

More often though in California at least a good number of people use the long 1.25" re-bar weights (15-19 inches long) in case they want to go bottom bouncing or they are in lakes with lots of trees (New Melones) when the water is low or very boulder like (Shaver Lake). Did I mention Kokanee love to hang near trees a lot. :) Stirring up the lazy loner males on the bottom can make a difference and re-bar weights are perfect for this type of activity. It can induce some action when needed under the right conditions when you see a fish or two resting near the bottom and know it is a Kokanee. I've seen the bottom hugger Kokanee at Shaver on video this last year so I was able to confirm their laziness.
 
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Sorry its taken me so long to get to the mac question... I've had some major computer issues that are finally resolved.

For trolling macs at the Gorge we use flat fish, rapalas, lucky crafts, and even frozen chubs trailing big blades. Although we've boated some nice fish we've never really developed any kind of consistency. We've also toyed around with vertical jigging a bit. For the most part we have had a hard time pulling ourselves away from koke fishing long enough to stay after the macs.

Now, these re-bar weights? These sound interesting. Any way I could see a pic or two?
 
I'll see if I can grab one for a picture. Essentially just a steel rod 15-19 inches long and about 1.25" diameter with an eye bolt in the top. I dipped mine in tool dip to help prevent it rusting.
 
What do the re-bar weights end up weighing, and any sway back?movie Ever thought of attaching a light(glow)stick to it?
 
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It all depends on the length and diameter but most people seem to have them around 7-8 pounds. There are some formulas to determine the weight based on steel density that can be used to better target what you want but it's not all that critical. They will weigh less per mass than lead of course since steel is not as heavy as lead. I think mine was around 8. As for sway back it's the same as a regular cannonball, maybe slightly better as I don't notice too much difference and I run all pancake weights most of the time unless I'm in the tree / boulder lakes.
 
Colored Downrigger Weights

What is the advantage of the rebar? Cost because you can lose them on the bottom? Or do they actually work better for regular trolling? thumbsup
 
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I believe the advantage would be the shape. Being long and skinny, and connected to the wire at the top it would act like a pencil weight used for drop shotting. It would be much more able to pull up and over obstructions instead of wedging in like conventional weights do. I've toyed in the past with adding a peice of rebar to a regular weight to help lift it over structure. But, I've never thought of upsizing the rebar, eliminating the pancake, and using the steel as the only weight. If you can't tell, this is an exciting development for me. I'll be making some up this winter. We always have spare rebar laying around, so I'll just need some eye bolts to weld on.

Thanks a lot for opening my eyes to this! I'd still love to see a pic of yours just to get this set perfect in my mind... and I'll be sure to post pics of mine when they are complete.
 
i know a guy that uses pipe filled with lead. and the #1 reason people use pipe or rebar is cost of a rigger ball. rebar is cheap
 
This discussion gives me an idea. We took some windows out of an old Victorian house and they had the old window weights for counterbalancing the weight of the window with pulleys. I have a bunch of those weights laying around. They are cast iron, about an inch-and-a-half in diameter and 10 to 15 inches long. They also have an eye cast into one end. I haven't weighed any of them yet, but I bet they'll be in the right range.

On thing that I'm wondering about is if these "pencil weights" have a tendency to twist on the down rigger wire. Anybody have a comment on that? Do any of you weld a fin on the back side of these weights to keep them trolling straight?
 
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The advantages are definitely less wedging chance for the tree and boulders - definitely an issue in California at lakes where the water gets low and of course cost can be a lot cheaper if you have access to materials and a machine shop. For bottom bouncing they will not to wedge themselves in the muck.

Monte - It sounds like you have access to the perfect materials needed, you just need to weld or thread in an eye bolt. The terminal tackle on the end of your cable should include a a snap-swivel so you take any twist issues out of the picture. I'll shoot a picture later today when I get get back from Bass Pro Shops and try not to spend any money on myself! HAH!

Kevin
 

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