100' rule

[eenakoK]

I have been reading some Kokanee articles and I have heard this mentioned a couple of times. Who follows this?

if you are 10' down, your set back is 90'
25' down, 75' back
etc

 

[remembering]

Never heard this rule but I do set back closer the further down I am. Even closer if I deiced to user flashers on the DR ball. No use having DR flashers if your setback is more than 10-15 feet.

 

[Propnut69]

I have played the game of 100's for years, I always use it as a starting point,then make what ever adjustment that are needed. Just remember that the rules of using the 100's method are written in pencil.

 

[eenakoK]

Thanks guys! I know that it is just a guideline. I was just wondering how many people actually followed it! Thanks for your input!

 

[SuperD]

For me, it doesn't seem to apply. At 60' deep, I'm 10' or less from the ball. So far in early season, my set back for the top 15' of the water column has been 110' - 120'. When I topline, I range between 135' & 150'. So, I can't think of anywhere in the water column I think about 100' rule unless it was purely by accident.

 

[eenakoK]

For me, it doesn't seem to apply. At 60' deep, I'm 10' or less from the ball. So far in early season, my set back for the top 15' of the water column has been 110' - 120'. When I topline, I range between 135' & 150'. So, I can't think of anywhere in the water column I think about 100' rule unless it was purely by accident.

Thank you for the information, that is what I love about this site! Do you use a line counter or are you counting strips?

 

[RalphL]

Like SD I set back much farther than the rule allows Early season, when they are in the top 20 ft or so, I also want to be a good ways from my boat shadow, since I run a pontoon that can be a big footprint.. I know the passing shadow alerts and often boogers them off so, longer setback...

 

[SuperD]

In the early season, I use my Tekota 300 line counter reels. Once I start going deep, I use my smaller, lighter reels since I do my set back by eye anyways.

 

[autorick]

I don't follow the 100' rule to a T, but i follow it's idea. The deeper I am, the closer to the ball I run. I do this mostly for better control of my gear and I get less tangles this way.

 

[eenakoK]

Thank you to everyone who responded! Great information

 

[Torres]

I've got another interesting question somewhat tied to this that will make you think a little more about this rule.

Would the amount of setback change the electrical charge that influences or repels fish to bite? I've wondered if that would make a difference too.

 

[SilverBullets]

I've got another interesting question somewhat tied to this that will make you think a little more about this rule.

Would the amount of setback change the electrical charge that influences or repels fish to bite? I've wondered if that would make a difference too.

According to Protroll the black box is effective in a 20' radius around the wire. They recommend a set-back of between 10-20'.
http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=5&p_id=12

 

[eenakoK]

in my experience, I use braid and have never had to think of that.

 

[kelson]

I fish single action (fly) reels when kok fishing. I load them with backing then 10# braid. Then I put 100' of 6# mono to my main line snap swivel. This way I know when I'm back 100' which is my go to set back when fishing early season. Like others here I shorten the set back proportionately as I drop below 20'.
K.

 

[smokin' Kokes]

the one big rule of kokanee fishing.

if they aren't bitin' and ur seenin' them on the sonar?
change something
depth
speed
lure
color
dodger
scent

or someone thru a banana in your boat, maybe try it on 40 lb and treble hooks?

I hooked the 6lb landlocked with so much setback and so deep that it would have taken Grand Coolee dam to electrify the DR wire enough so the fish would have felt it.

 

[SuperD]

I've got another interesting question somewhat tied to this that will make you think a little more about this rule.

Would the amount of setback change the electrical charge that influences or repels fish to bite? I've wondered if that would make a difference too.

A longer set back gets you out of the immediate influence of a hot downrigger wire but in some cases the damage is already done. If the fish you pass over are the ones you expect to catch, you've scattered them by the time your lure presentation gets there. It wouldn't be reasonable to think the hot wire pushed them out of your location and 20; later they come right back.

 

[Torres]

Points well taken guys, thanks for the info.

I've heard that using braided line eliminates the electrical charge issue so I added it to my downrigger at the end of last season, and so far I haven't used it yet to know the difference.

 

[kelson]

Mr. T,
You're going to love it. I recently went to braid and won't be going back to cable. Be certain to redo the knot at the ball every few trips. I have attempted a fix for this aspect of braid. I will describe below, but you may find it confusing so PM me if you wish.

I added a doubled over section of what my tackle guy calls halibut cord to the end of the DR braid using a needle nail knot which I then coated with clear silicone and a two inch piece of orange latex tubing. All this comes in over the outer DR pulley wheel and passes through the auto stop gate on my electric Scottys. The covered splice know acts as the old plastic "stop" part and stops the rigger. Then I set the connection to the ball such that the ball is just barely in the water. Then I put my release clip on the other at exactly the same length on the other end of he cord. I have used the system and love it. No more sliding stops!

Tight lines,
K

 

[smokin' Kokes]

I'm using Power Pro 250 lb yellow for the extra vis. in dark and extra bright reflective conditions.

Power Pro recommends either the Palomar or the double wrap around Uni Knot for their braid on the terminal end ball snap.

Use Super Glue liquid on the tightened knot to prevent slippage after pulling tight and setting.

Sportco says that braid will crack the cable spool in the Cannons and will not spool them up without a release for braid.

braid must be washed with clean fresh no clorine water at the end of the season especially down at the bottom of spool and totally dried. will rot from mold acids

small dia. rubber band in the braid stops prevent them from moving accidently but can be easily adjusted

far more difficult for us old codgers to spot failing worn spots on the DR braid than the old SS. stick in water, bottom debris etc can easily leave a nick.
braid does not last as long to the rigors of DR fishing

 

[Propnut69]

Like anything else there are pros and cons to using braid. I used it for years on my old Cannon mini-mag electrics.

Pros= no annoying hum that cable can produce. Don't have to worry about pos/neg charges from the d/r. Less blow back from the d/r weight,as braid produces less drag then cable does. It's cheaper to replace then cable.Will not kink like cable does.

Cons= it can cause spools to spit,as it can wind to tight around the spool. It weakens faster the cable does,sun and time can do a number on braid. The auto-stop feature on Cannon d/r's will not work with braid.

It really comes down to a personal preference,as to what a fisherman want to use.