Bottom Bouncing your DR weight

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DLM

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This season I intend to try a little bottom bouncing of the downrigger weight, something I have not done in the past, but I have a few questions for those of you who are experienced in this.

1. How far above the weight to you attach your release?

2. How long of a setback do you use?

3. How do you know you are actually hitting bottom? Does the downrigger line angle change, see it in the fishfinder?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I am equally curious about this technique..How and why is it done, and is it primarily a lake trout technique? The obvious risk is the hang up, could you not run a sacrificial second weight,secured to the primary dr weight with light mono that would snap off in the event of a snag thereby eliminating that risk.? All kinds of "junk" weight could be used that would stir up the mud if thats the goal. How does it work??
 
I've heard a few testimonials about punching the bottom being very effective for Kokes as well as Lakers. I think the sound/vibration just flat gets some attention.

David, short set back to prevent your dodger and lure from snagging the bottom. You want to pop or skip the bottom with your weight intermittently. The boom will shake a bit and the line angle starts to change. It isn't ball dragging, it is ball bouncing.
 
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DLM I know of this technique for targeting Lake trout run a suspended weight under your DR weight hitting the bottom with stirs up the bottom can be a little dangerious if your DR weight hangs up not a good thing. As for kokanee never herd of it usually they are a suspended fish hope this helps
 
Where I've been told it is quite effective on Kokes is when you see them on the backside of subsurface mounds. Bouncing the weight across the top of the mound will usually instigate a strike.
 
In the shallower lakes, and near the banks of the deeper lakes, the kokes up here tend to head for the bottom when the boat traffic gets a little heavy, or later in the day when it gets bright and warms up. There is nothing that sends an entire school to the bottom faster than a couple of jet skis.....

I got the weight thing figured out, and my downrigger clutchs are already set to avoid any problem there, it is the fine techniques I am lacking.
 
I have read of using a lengths of rebar attached by 'breakable' line to the downrigger wire. The rebar drags across the bottom relatively snag free, but there is not a major loss if it does snag.
 
I have read of using a lengths of rebar attached by 'breakable' line to the downrigger wire. The rebar drags across the bottom relatively snag free, but there is not a major loss if it does snag.

precisely,....hang it 3 ft below the DR ball on a length of 8lb mono,and so what if it snags, it pops off and you hang another..Why risk an expensive ball and cable??
 
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works on the laying in wait spawning runs of fall chinook laying in shallow water off the beach just north of the mouth of the Columbia River.
they school up in 20'>40' water laying right on the sandy bottom.
I run a couple pieces of 1 ft long 1" rebar tied on with any old heavy mono. 50lb works. hang off the bottom of the downrigger 2 ft. I run the DR snap on 2'>5' above the nut.

can see the weight and sand kick up on the Garmin. like ringing the dinner bell.

also works on halibut.

fish are sound vibration triggered.
 
t4luilI've got a dumb question I'm finally going to ask; what is the "set back"? Is it the amount of line that is let out before hooking to the clip?

And speaking of that, what is the rule of thumb for amount of line trailing the DR clip? I've been running about 30', but I'm not basing that on anything and it seems like maybe that much line will allow my dodger/bait to not accurately be at the depth I want????

Thanks, and sorry if I'm hi-jacking this thread
 
t4luilI've got a dumb question I'm finally going to ask; what is the "set back"? Is it the amount of line that is let out before hooking to the clip?
And speaking of that, what is the rule of thumb for amount of line trailing the DR clip? I've been running about 30', but I'm not basing that on anything and it seems like maybe that much line will allow my dodger/bait to not accurately be at the depth I want????

Thanks, and sorry if I'm hi-jacking this thread

That is exactly what set back is. The distance from lure to d/r clip


]I have never seen anything about kokanee that is chiseled in stone. The amount of set back depends on what time of year it is,and where the fish are . I use a system that i call the "100's" as a starting point. In the spring, the kokes on the gorge will be in the top of the water column.I start at 90 ft of set back,and drop my d/r weight down to ten feet=100. I also use this system as the season wears on. If I want to fish at 50 ft, deep I will make my set back at 50 ft. Like I said this is a starting point. The successful fisherman has to adapt,so I'm always changing something till I figure out what the fish want.
 

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