breakaway snubber

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RalphL

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
329
Location
new mexico
any dr ball snubbers designed to "breakaway" if hung up, Any jury rig options that hold up well and still insulate the ball??
 
I think we all get hung up now and then but kokanee fishing usually targets fish suspended over deep water. If you're fishing for other species like Macs, I get your concern.

I run steel cable exactly what comes from the downrigger manufacturer. Used to run Cannon's but switched to Scotty's. When I have gotten myself hung up on the bottom, the Scotty's brake adjustment always saves the day. Once I realize that the DR is paying out more cable, I reverse or turn the boat and head back to the snag. Yeah, your trolling rigs get all tangled and you have to deal with that but it's better than dropping the $35 DR ball into Davy's Locker. I believe that most DR manufacturers recommend having a good pair of dikes onboard for such an instant but I've found that quick response and a good brake adjustment on the DR itself has helped tremendously. Check your owner's manual for proper brake adjustment.

If you're looking to insulate your DR ball from electrical charges, Scotty makes a plastic snap that goes between the cable terminal and the ball. That's a whole discussion on it's own if you believe in the electrolisis theory and it's affect on fish attracting/repelling. I've read about it, measured the voltage to the DR cable (yeah it's measureable) and even tried to minimize the excessive voltage but I still put lotsa fish in the boat.

So, I'm right back to the DR brake system. Make sure your's is set correctly.
 
Deep water in Heron is the submerged river canyon, From 200 ft to 30 happens fast ,and if your the least bit asleep at the switch your ball is dragging bottom. My cannon brake/clutch has saved my bacon a time or two and I keep cutters at hand, but I would rather lose a ball that I can instantly replace than have to re-cable a dr spool. Thought a breakaway snubber would be good insurance..
 
Rapid depth change is also a problem at Flaming Gorge. The trick is, don't fall asleep at the switch! Maybe a snubber is the best thing for you? They're easy enough to build yourself and the surgical tubing would keep the lighter weight mono or braid protected from bottom-dragging abrasion.

Let us know what you come up with. 101idea101
 
I don't want to lose a weight until I'm ready to wave the white flag and cut my cable.
 
One of the warnings with the downriggers would be no boats smaller then 16' so if a guy is pushing that and dragging a ball intentionally I would use a snubber or heavy line, rather then sink my boat.
 
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I set my depth finder alarm to tell me if i am getting into shallower water. At the 1.5 mph speed I am trolling at, this gives me plenty of time to bring in my downriggers. Have never been hung up since.
 
I set the brake on the downriggers at the beginning of every season and a few times during...never had an issue. Also, like mentioned have a good pair of cable cutters within arm's reach just in case. The depth alarm idea sounds good...might have to try that out this year. thumbsup
 
on the canon mag ten releasing the brake is how I lower my ball My depth alarm is too quiet to rely on

I have mag 5's on my boat, and I always let down my weight under power. I never free spool the weight. I set the drags on the d/r s to where I want them,then I know if I get hung up,that the drag on the spool is loose enough to give me a chance to get the weight back.
 
Setting the depth alarm is good advise. Zip ties make cheap break-aways/ isolators, and their breaking strength is usually on the package.
 

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