Downrigger cable current measured

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Flyguy55

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2009
Messages
88
Location
Navajo Dam NM
Hi
I just bought a used 16 ft alum boat that I'm rigging up for a Kokanee Killer. I've been using my 26" Searay Cuddycabin twin that is getting to be more work to launch and load then I want to do most of the time. I often fish by myself .
I read an article about measuring electrical current from the DR cable to ground . Do you all measure it ? What do you find ?
If there is a current with a plastic manual Cannon DR it must be electrolyses ?
Do you add anodes to the hull ?
I assume switching cable to braid eliminates this current unless its from the alum hull .
What strength braided line do you use ? is there a brand thats good ? If I can't find it localy , is there an online source ?
Thanks
Dick , NM
 
I did a search ( i should have done it first ) and probably found the info I needed, unless someone has something to add,
Thanks
 
Flyguy,

There are two things to think about here. First, is corrosion of your boat and motor instead of any anodes you have. Second is the electric field that the fish feel when they are relatively close to your boat. The black box helps with both of these situations. Pro-Troll has a great book they enclose with their Black Box.
 
"Do you add anodes to the hull ?"

I added some "annoys" to my hull and they just scared the fish away.

jz
 
Thanks to those to replyed . I went to the pro-troll websit and theres lots of information. Probably the same info as in the book. The motor overhal for the Kokanee Killer is finished . I'll run it in the tank for awhile tomorrow . When I get the DRs mounted and take it out I'll do some testing . I've always done best with long setbacks . Maybe the current in the cables was the reason long setbacks worked best.
 
Yes, many of the guys here who use the black boxes run very short setbacks...three to ten feet. This allows you to turn sharp, changing your trolling patterns and increasing the potential for bites. Fishermen with long setbacks can't turn as sharp or as often.
 
I would mount everything up first and go give it a try. I have an aluminum hull and run Scotty 1106's and catch fish just fine with either a short or long set back. Shallow or deep. Caught kokes this past week at 10 to 12 foot depths. I would give it all a whirl and see what happens before you get all caught up in this whole thing.

Take an olm meter and hook the ground to the battery and the hot to your cable when it is down in the water. Set it to detect the volts that would be put out and see what you get.
 
Thanks , that was my plan .
We finished the motor and controls overhaul and ran the motor today, sweet ! Its a 30+ yr old 4 cyl 50 horse merc bored , new pistons , bearings , reedblocks . Carbs ect rebuilt . should last another 30 + yrs .
I'm taking my Mom on an Alaska cruise for a couple weeks , then to some serious Kokanee fishing :)
One day of fishing in Juneau .
 
To test the voltage on an aluminum boat buy a simple digital voltage meter from radio shack or harbor freight. Set the meter on 12 volts. Place the red (hot) lead on your rigger wire and the black (negative) lead on the hull of your aluminum boat. If your voltage reads .70 or higher you have a hot boat. The makers of the black box designate .60 as optimum voltage but with my Cannon Digitrol PIC, I like to set the wires at .57 to .58. To do the same test on a glass boat simply run the black (negative) lead to the negative pole on the battery.
 

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