Ethanol Gas for Outboard Motors?

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I am using standard ethanol right out of the pumps. My owners manual says it is okay, but I did ad an additional filter to help seperate any water out.

I think the main issue with some boats was fiberglass fuel tanks, which would be destroyed by the alcohol. Mine has a plastic tank which the manufacturer (alumaweld) says will not be affected by the alcohol.
 
I try to avoid ethanol when every I can,but it's not always possible. I use the green sta-bil as it's suppose to help break down the ethanol in the gas. I treat my fuel about 3-4 times a year.I have read that ethanol won't harm a plastic tank. But i have to think that if it will eat away at a fiberglass tank,it's got to be able to break down the fuel line(s). Using a fuel stabilizer is cheap insurance ,and it don't hurt anything.
 
Part of the problem with ethanol is that it has a reputation for destroying gaskets and rubber and plastic fuel lines. This was especially prevalent when they just started putting ethanol in the gasoline. Since then, the manufacturers made changes to their products to make them ethanol resistant. However, many of our outboard motors and fuel tanks are very old in years (by automotive standards), and may have been built before they started revising the formulas for gaskets, rubbers and plastics. My outboard is a 1987 model, and I haven't had any problems with it, but I do use only Chevron or Union 76 fuel in it. I run it completely out of gas at the end of each trip to empty the carburetor bowl. I siphon my unused gas into my car tank after each trip, so I can use new gas in the outboard the next time out.

Ethanol was not put into the gasoline to get rid of water. It does do that, but it's not the reason it was added. It was a political decision. We get ethanol from corn. There is a big corn and farm lobby. The US grows a lot of corn, and it is politically popular to have ethanol in the fuel, because it's "made in the USA", and our farmers can survive.

As a fuel, ethanol is inferior to gasoline as it has less energy per pound. So, if you can find fuel without ethanol, it's likely better fuel.
 
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I haul my Gas

Yep, I take non ethonal gas with me where ever I go. Just been a habit and not likely that I will change. I have a late model 4 stroke Merc and haven't read my manuel to determin if it would be an issue or not. Not really worried about the motor, not sure if my fuel tank would be an issue. Just playing it safe!

What I have changed that has made a huge difference to my motor was to start using Lucas High RPM motor Oil. Running smoother and I now have to throttle back quicker to prevent over reving. Lucas even smoothed out my new trolling motor. Great stuff.
 
A friend gave me a quart of 2-stroke racing oil. Reading the label, I found out that it was not designed for long-term use. I didn't know they would make oil like that.
 
Lucas Oil

I'll have to research the life on the oil. I put about 10 Hrs on my motor sense the last oil change. I know it is designed for engins that Run High RPM, but did not look into about long it lasts. I do know that it has an anti friction additive.

I'll need to research, the life of the product. I would likely continue to use it, just change it more freuently as neccassary. I have 04 four stroke with less than 100 hrs, so it is pretty un used. Would hate to wreck it.

Thanks for the heads up!
 
Lucas Oil

I want to make it clear I am not stumping for this company. Bottom line, this is not a cheap product. Here is some basic information. It can be used like normal engine motor oil. I am only guessing that one would use comon sense on the hrs you would use this oil before changing it.

It sure made major difference in my motor. I tried this and was very surprised at the perfomance of the motor after a Hour or so on this oil.

I use the 20/50wt Oil in the main motor and 10/30 is the troling motor!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From The Lucas Web Site


Lucas Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil
Lucas High Performance Synthetic Racing 20w50 is an excellent product that provides the consistent viscosity needed for precision ET racing. It's blended with an exclusive additive package that includes lubricity agents and anti-seize agents that control drag like a zero weight oil and protect metal like a heavy multi-viscosity oil. It is excellent for normal highway usage. For more specific information on each racing oil please review our product specification sheets.
 
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There isn't anything bad about going over to synthetics or just staying the way you have with regular oil. Synthetics will make a huge difference. But once you cross the line in the change over, stay with it. Synthetics will clean your motor/s and coat them with additives thats in the oil. If you go back to using regular oil, there will be a gumming effect in the motor and its hard to clean that out. Synthetics reduce a great amount of friction and wear. I use syn. in my vehicles and very happy with results. Longer engine life, not as frequent oil changes. I like preventitive maintenance and this is a for sure thing. Even if you change oil after a season on the water, its still cost effective. After all one oil change per season is not much. But unfortunately synthetics doesn't come without a price.
 
Good Information

I had no idea about the gumming effect if you go back to regular oil. I do appreciate the information. For darn sure would not want to make that mistake.

Thanks
 
Like I said, theres nothing bad with either way you go. Synthetics are greater plus. If you did go back to regular oil, a good way to clean out some of gumming would be to mix some automatic transmission fluid with the oil. Tranny fluid is a detergent and its an old remedy for cleaning out engines. But I'm for syn oil. thumbsup
 
switched over totally in the boats to real gasoline, no ethanol corn liquor except the sippin' kind

made the most difference in the Merc 15hp 4stroke kicker. smoooooth low speed idle for those sloooow winter kokes.
plus easy starts in 25d F air temps and 37d F water temps.

even helped the big main. fires right off even in the cold

found 2 distributor/tank farm operators here that carry it. one only has real gasoline in all their gas pumps at the distribution site/office
and only 20 cents a gallon more. easy pumps to access with truck/camper and boat. only 2 miles from my driveway.

now, if i could find Maker's Mark for $3 a gallon. life would be good.
 
O.K. guys, this whole synthetic oil thing has me interested. Anything I can do to be nice to my engines, ya know. One question though, I understand that Lucas is a fine product used for high rpm racing engines, but how does it perform on low rpm engines like our small (9.9 hp) kicker motors? Any problems in that area???
 
Kicker improvement

I had a 8 hp 4 stroke kicker and sold it becuase I wanted a smaller one. I bought a 4 stroke 3 & 1/2 Hp and was ready to kick my self becuase it was not very smooth running at all. (actually ran badly) I put my 10 hrs break in on the the little one and changed to the lukus 10 - 30 High RPM oil. About a hour into the next day of trolling, smoothed out ran nice. I did put about 30 min on it at 80% RPM on my way out to fish.

I am running the 10-30 in my 7.4 L in my GMC. Made a difference in my truck too.
 
O.K. guys, this whole synthetic oil thing has me interested. Anything I can do to be nice to my engines, ya know. One question though, I understand that Lucas is a fine product used for high rpm racing engines, but how does it perform on low rpm engines like our small (9.9 hp) kicker motors? Any problems in that area???

Usually on the smaller kickers, there is a little diferent weight oil. The marine dealers that cater parts can give you recomendations on the type of oil weight to use. Doesn't mean you have to use their brand. But it will give you an idea on what to use. Most synthetic oils are good but I'm not familiar with any particular oil to stay away from.
 
I did a little research on the Internet and found that most sources raved about synthetics. The cost factor seemed to be the most negative thing, but even that was lessened due to the fewer oil changes required. One site rated the synthetics and found Penzoil to be the best, followed by Amzoil. No mention of Lucas. Talking with a couple of the local auto parts stores here in the area both of them said any of the Lucas products were quality items. I'll give the Lucas 10-30w a try this season and see how it performs. Oh yea, by the way, I called Lucas and asked them about gumming up your engine if you decide to change back to regular petrolium based motor oil and they said that should be no problem what-so-ever, no gumming should occur.
 
I am running Rotella Synth in my Power stroke with great success and I am running Amsoil in my daughters Ford ranger. Amsoil products all the way through the ranger to be exaxt. Not plugging for Amsoil here but we have a distributor here in the Weber County area in Northern Utah. This is one amazing lubricant. I did some reserch on it and I was very impressed. The cost initially is a little more, but when I weighed out changing the oil in my rigs every 3000 before, i Found I was actually saving money this with Amsoil and doing themn every 7500 even though they say I can go 12,000.
 
Amsoil

Absolutely a great product. Some products perform better than others under High RPM. We have a local Amsoil dealer that has a warehouse and office here in town.

I was thinking about going over and talking to them. I know that the lucas products has a special anti-friction additive. I am not sure about amsoil.

Any synthetic should improve performace. Haven't herd that penzoil was rated number one. Thats real surprising.
 

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