Fluorescent colors explained

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FishwithGary

Fish with Gary Tackle Co.
Joined
Nov 14, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Nevada City, CA
Greetings of the Season to all my buds at the Kokanee Fishing Forum.
I am stuck in Las Vegas for truck repairs, so I have some time on my hands and ran across this thread from last summer.

MMM posted re Ririe 7-25-09:
The fish are ... into spawning mode. Anything red at 40' works!
Reply from Silver Bullets
If red supposedly turns to grey around the 20' depth, is it the shade of grey their attracted to down at 40'?
MMM reply:I think fish are adept at perceiving gray scale... I think they know where on the gray scale red lies when all colors turn gray. I think red also has a good contrast against the underwater background. We've been experimenting with colors for next year’s crop vs. colors for the spawning class. At 35 to 40 feet next year’s class is hitting green at a rate of 4 to 1 over red. Just the opposite for the spawning class and the males are not touching the green at all while the try to rip the red apart!

Now for gray. I watched a show that was a color test for steelhead... The big surprise was the color of a lead split shot was the number one color in test after test!​

I would like to add the following comments and information.

There is a vast difference between the natural color red, and a fluorescent red. Most fishermen do not fathom the difference. Hence a question about red is generic, but a generic response is not at all helpful.

True red has wavelength in the visible spectrum that is the longest wavelength of the visible colors. Above the water, we see the color red because it reacts with the red wavelength of the visible spectrum. Above the water, if there were no red in the light hitting it, the color red would be seen as gray, a shade of gray or black. This is because the color red has specific wavelength, but shades of red begin to fade as the wavelength of visible light hitting it is shortened. If you take an true red object into a dark closet and shine a pure orange light on it, the red object will appear black. If you shine a red-orange light on it, the red will be faded.

When the color true red is in the water, the same rules apply. Water changes the light that passes through it. For a true color to survive, its wavelength needs to survive the depth it is desired to be seen. As it turns out, the wavelength for the color true red is the very first color to be removed (actually absorbed) as you descend the water column. When the wavelengths for the color red have been totally absorbed, the wavelengths for the other colors remain. The same will be true for all the remaining colors as you descend the water column. Thus it will be the same for true orange as it is absorbed, leaving the wavelengths for green, blue, indigo and violet intact. And the process continues down the water column until no light occurs at depth.

The rule is really quite simple. For true colors, the deeper you go in the water column, the shorter the color wavelength survives. This is to also say that the longer wavelengths can no longer be seen, and those become objects without color. The absence of color is black.

This brings up a couple more things. Kindly review this chart:

Red: 620 - 720 nm (The longest wavelength of the visible spectrum)
Orange: 590 – 620 nm
Yellow: 570 – 590 nm
Green: 495 – 570 nm
Blue: 450 – 495 nm
Violet: 380 – 450 nm (The shortest wavelength of the visible spectrum)

What you perceive on the surface as the color red may actually contain additional colors. Shades of red that contain other colors (such as green and orange mixed in) are still subject to the same rules as you descend the water column. The true red goes out first yet this still leaves the non-absorbed colors intact, depending on how deep you go. That accounts for the perceived shades of gray at depth from a perceived true red at the surface.

Just how far down the water column does these changes occur depends on the water itself. The more particulates in the water, the faster the longer wavelengths are absorbed. Particulates can be such things as suspended inorganics (mud) and suspended organics (plankton – kokanee food). A healthy plankton population reduces available light at depth, but it means there is food for the kokanee.

Generally speaking, most kokanee fishing will occur where the only available light is green, blue, and violet. (Yellow, then orange is added the farther north you go, because the fishing tends to be shallower. Also, the “bluer” the lake, the clearer the water. The clearer the water, the less particulates, and color wavelengths descend deeper).

So far I have only dealt with true colors. Now is the time to shift to fluorescent colors.

Fluorescent colors are those that will remain their color when struck by light of shorter wavelength. Thus a fluorescent red will still be red when struck by yellow, or orange, or green, or blue, or violet wavelengths. Which is to say, that a fluorescent red will still be red as you descend the water column until it reaches a depth where there is no visible light to act on it.

The same principle applies to all of the fluorescent colors. If you want yellow at depth, make sure it is fluorescent. Same with orange. Same with all fluorescent colors. The colors red, orange, yellow, and green are all available as fluorescent colors. Add pink (aka hot pink), and one has a huge array of colors available.

Will the color you see at the surface be the same color at presentation depth? If there is any light at presentation depth, the answer will be yes IF the color is fluorescent. Ordinary blues and greens will be seen also, but those colors will be brighter at depth if fluorescent.

Much has been made and marketed and sold to the fishing community as UV tackle. The primary marketing point is that it is claimed that UV light penetrates the water column. That is patently false. Real science by biologists (who are not marketing lures) have determined that UV light penetrates just a few inches in water with green plankton. UV light will penetrate a bit deeper in blue water (such as the ocean). It really does not take much to eliminate the UV light. Sunglasses are worn for that purpose, and sun screen is applied to keep you from getting sunburned. I have never caught a kokanee or trout that has been sunburned. So why is what is marketed as UV some pretty good stuff?

When you shine a black light on some material and it appears to light up, all that tells you is that the material is fluorescent. The material is what I call UV reactive. That is because the UV light has a shorter wavelength than all of the visible true colors. And as I have explained above, fluorescent colors retain their color when struck by a shorter wavelength. Thus a “UV” color is seen at depth, NOT because there is UV light to act on it, but because it is fluorescent. Use a black light to determine if a color is really fluorescent.

Don (MMM) is correct that contrast is very important in your presentation. Here is why. First, color is not the very first attractant, vibration is. Once the fish has determined that the vibration is not a threat, it is attracted (attraction response) and comes in to investigate. The goal is to stimulate a biting response. Can kokanee and trout see color? Yes, BUT, the science supports color discernment at about 10% of what a salmonid can see, and this is directly in front of the fish just a few feet – not side to side. However, what the fish can see the best is contrast. And the fish can see almost 360 degrees, as well as up and down, and all spaces in between. So the fish sees 100% contrast and 10% color. The goal to maximize your presentation is to use color to enhance the contrast.

There reaches a point where the color presented is distanced outside the ability of the fish to see color. As the fish gets closer, suddenly the color literally shifts to color from the non-color it perceived just inches earlier. This color shift is a significant factor in stimulating the biting response. And a dramatic color shift will not happen unless your colors are fluorescent. The concept of color shift will occur at all levels of depth in the water column provided there is some light.

This is not to detract from the role of scent, and the additional role of vibration to stimulate the biting response. Indeed these factors are additive. But when you think about it, scent is a contrast (from non scent in the rest of the water) and the lure should have a different vibration contrast from the dodger.

Clearly you want to use all factors to fish at 100% efficiency. But if you are not using fluorescent colors, you efficiency will be significantly reduced. But also remember, on any given day, stimulant color shifted colors may change.
A further note on Don’s observation. As it turns out, pre-spawn salmon go through a biological change that enhances their sensitivity to the color red. This enhancement is not present in the younger class of fish. This accounts for the difference in catch rate.

And as for the steelhead info, I doubt it was presented with the idea of the science of fluorescent colors in mind, and one is not targeting steelhead at depth.

Fluorescent colors are not phosphorescent. Phosphorescence is the ability to carry light to depth, and is commonly called glow. Cheap glow is marketed to unsuspecting fisherman. Cheap glow won’t even last to the target depth. Extended glow is the ticket. In low light and lack of light conditions, good extended glow provides the necessary contrast. There is some thought that using a bright extended glow adjacent to a fluorescent color will result in that fluorescent color being made visible when it would not otherwise be seen.

I wish all of you a very prosperous and safe New Year.

Gary
 
This is a great post Gary. At first when I saw the length of it, I wasn't sure if I was gonna have to take a short break. But as I got reading, I couln't stop, it was very interesting on colors. I often wandered if florescents were the way to go over regular colors. I now have a better understanding of attracting, contrast in the water column, using extended glow vs cheap glow. That really changes some things within my tackle system. Some of it I do have. I wish I could see 360 degrees, I wouldn't have to worry about my back. fencing
 
Yes...thanks Gary. I met Gary at the Sacramento ISE show and bought some gear from him. He's a real expert on Kokanee fishing and I'd love to see him hang out here more. I used to read his regular educational posts on another site and even used to paw through the archives for more of his information. But the site went belly up and irritated a lot of people who had put effort into sharing their knowledge. By the time they came back up, good people like Gary stopped putting so much time into their "free" postings. So, it's Thank You to Gary from me and a lot of other guys here on this rather homey site. I'm still hoping for a chance at a Bullards Bar trip with Gary, assuming the Kokes come back there.
 
Another great post, thanks for sharing! I too have read many of Gary's write-ups on kokanee fishing over the years and have enjoyed every one of them. No one actually knows what a koke is thinking, but Gary's theories will get you one step closer! thumbsup
 
Looking forward to see Gary at the Sacto ISC. Was wondering if Gary will have a DVD on kokanee fishing.
 
Thank you all for your kind comments. A couple of things. This is a wonderful website, and I intend to contribute a lot more as I can. My home lake of Bullard's Bar was such a disaster, I spent much energy trying to get CA F&G to grasp some really basic concepts, change protocols and implement measures that would cost nothing. It takes 2 years to benefit from the changes. CA F&G has taken a wait and see posture, so this year at BB will be the most critical. In any event, there are huge lessons to be learned regardless of the immediate success or failure of the fishery. Getting the powers that be to really learn those lessons and change that to policy is the struggle.

In the meantime, all of you who are blessed with such wonderful kokanee fishing, be sure to support your local fish and game managers.

Winter is the time for sportsman' shows, and this is absolutely a great time for me. I got to meet many of you in person face to face. I keep expanding my shows, and this year: Sacramento, Boise ID, Portland OR, Redmond OR, and Medford OR. Maybe next winter I can add Salt Lake. (Over the past couple of years I have had many requests to come to Salt Lake).

In the works for this next season is a trip to the Gorge with my dear friend MMM.

I have some new stuff for this next season, and will have it on my website in about 3-4 weeks. And a DVD is in the thought process.

Again, this is a great website, and I am grateful to all of you for helping me learn so much about our great sport.

Gary
 
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Fish with Gary

Gary, Welcome to a really great forum!!!

I met Gary at the Portland show last year and have used several of his dogers & lures!! They are GREAT!!

My Favorites at Lake Merwin:
1. Watermelon 2. Pink Stomper 3. Royal Emerald 4. King Emerald in green 5. Pink Lady

Green & Pink were good colors at Merwin last year. Sooo if any of you are looking to stock up be sure to check out Garys web site!

Gary, I hope to see you again in Portland and if you decide to fish Lake Merwin give me a call! Plenty of room in the RV & Boat at the lake!!.....thumbsup....Kokonuts....Richard K.
 
A while back I found 2 needlefish spoons from Luhr Jensen in the tackle store in Manila.They were a pewter/ lead color, not a paint,just the metal. I dont know why but I could not keep those spoons in the water !! I caught loads of mini-macs and rainbows on them until I lost them both. I have never seen that color again.I think would be a great dodger color. It was like Don/MMM said, lead was the best color !!
 
I had decided that I wasnt going to the Portland show but if Gary's gonna be there I'll have to put the plan back on the table. I've learned a ton from his logical approch to kokanee fishing.
 
This has been a fantastic forum. Thanks so much to Gary it really opens your eyes about the colors that we all use. I think I will make the trip to boise just to see him. Thanks to all
 
best article i've ever seen on fish and our beloved kokanee's response to lure color, action and vibration.
clarifies the UV hype and advertising rhetoric.

thank you Gary and looking forward to perusing some of your exotic flashers and spinner rigs at Portland.

folks
don't miss Gary's Kokanee University at his website
http://www.fishwithgary.com/kokaneeuniversity.html

helps polish off some of the winter rustyness for the spring koke bite starting in a few months.
i've printed out a copy for my koke bag.
i used to know what went first:confused:
 
Gary, good post.

A couple thoughts/questions to ponder:

First, is that the the typical non-fluorescent color of lures is due to pigments that function by removing light such that certain wavelengthsare not reflected to be seen. In that regard, what we perceive as red requires the reflectance of more of the spectrum than just the 'red' wavelengths. Also, TRUE pink is most interesting and is not a version of red. Rather it is a variation of the primary pigment, magenta (a darker version is purple). Magenta absorbs green wavelenghts, but reflects red and violet wavelengths.

Second, are the violet wavelenths of light always sufficient to excite the fluorescent colors used on lures, or do some require UV excitation? From what I understand, UV light is actually removed by water more than the shorter visible wavelengths.


Tight lines,
Chuck
 
Gary, good post.

A couple thoughts/questions to ponder:

First, is that the the typical non-fluorescent color of lures is due to pigments that function by removing light such that certain wavelengthsare not reflected to be seen. In that regard, what we perceive as red requires the reflectance of more of the spectrum than just the 'red' wavelengths. Also, TRUE pink is most interesting and is not a version of red. Rather it is a variation of the primary pigment, magenta (a darker version is purple). Magenta absorbs green wavelenghts, but reflects red and violet wavelengths.

Second, are the violet wavelenths of light always sufficient to excite the fluorescent colors used on lures, or do some require UV excitation? From what I understand, UV light is actually removed by water more than the shorter visible wavelengths.

Tight lines,
Chuck
Now my head hurts:confused: All I know that a red uv hoochie will be effective at a deeper depth than a non uv red hoochie. Same with pink, orange and other colors.
Don't know why, don't care why. Over the past couple years I have proven to myself that uv of any color will catch fish deeper than the same color non-uv.
 
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Don't know why, don't care why.

Some times I'm just glad I can ask a brother, "Hey, what's working?" And go from there. I don't have to be a scientist to fish that method and catch fish!
 
Hi Gary, I have done a lot of reading on your website and I am always watching for more information. Thank you for the updates here on KFF and also Welcome to the Kokanee Fishing forums. thumbsup
 
My father used to have and use a thermometer that was manufactured for this purpose so he could find the thermocline. That tool long ago quit working. I have seen a similar one in a catalog a while back but I never got around to ordering it and now have no idea who it was that carried it. Even if I could find it again, it had one problem, it had too short of a cord to work deep enough. I have heard of one that is part of a down rigger system but it costs thousands of dollars. Where does one find such a thermometer, that can read depths to at least 100', that is at least somewhat affordable? It is a great tool to own but I don't know where to find one.
 

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