MT Kokanee
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- Nov 11, 2015
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- 6
I'm looking to purchasing a Remote - Troll unit to mount my kicker. Has anyone have any experience with these unit's? Good or bad.
Pro's/Con;s on a on Remote Trolling unit
- Thread starter MT Kokanee
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Petty4life
ADMINISTRATOR/FOUNDER
I have an older remote troll unit. Early 90s I've replaced the motor and the switch. I got it used and it was in rough shape but there built to last. I wouldn't recommend troll daddy
MT Kokanee
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Thank you for the reply. Even though you had to replace the motor and switch, I'm assuming you are satisfied with the unit?
Bduck
Flaming Gorge Forum MODERATOR
I was using the Troll Daddy for a few years. Parts are inferior which meant maintenance up keep very periodically(would not recommend). Troll Daddy is also out of business. I went over to the newer upgrade style remote troll and have been very satisfied with it. My purchase included 2 wireless remotes which stay in the boat at all times, it comes with hardwire cable in the event wireless remotes quit working. The mounting hardware is your choice depending if you mount it on the transom or a swim deck that's already in place. Mine is directly to the transom. Also, remote troll has a add on feature sold separately to work with GPS units which I don't think they will mount to older style remote troll brackets. However which style you purchase, a used older style or the newer style, there has been a lot good from what I keep hearing plus my experience.
Propnut69
Well-known member
I have been running a remote-troll for about 25 yrs now. I have had to replace the motor, the cables, and got tried of replacing the cords. Finally went with the wireless controller. I have nothing but good things to say about have a remote -troll, It make trolling easier, especially when by yourself.Remote-troll has excellent customer service, and my next boat will have a remote troll also.
MT Kokanee
Member
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- Nov 11, 2015
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Thanks guys for the feedback, great info. I think i will go with the Remote-Troll.
Oh...one other question, do you have any problems with trailering with the kicker on the mount? My kicker is a Mercury 9.9 four stroke with trim/tilt and electric start, total weight is approx. 110lbs.
Thank you for your time and great feedback.
Oh...one other question, do you have any problems with trailering with the kicker on the mount? My kicker is a Mercury 9.9 four stroke with trim/tilt and electric start, total weight is approx. 110lbs.
Thank you for your time and great feedback.
Bduck
Flaming Gorge Forum MODERATOR
My kicker is also the Merc 9.9 4st long shaft. I trailer my boat sometimes with kicker in full down position so it drains as I bring it out of the water. After mounting kicker bracket, kicker will mount an additional 16" back onto bracket which won't or shouldn't interfere with trailer. When ordering be sure to select appropriate mount system to your size motor. You will also need a transom saver to support kicker attached at cross member of trailer while in tow.
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MT Kokanee
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Thank you for the information and the pictures...vary helpful.
Have a great day
Have a great day
COfisherman
Well-known member
Remote kicker controller.
I fought with the stearing link from the big motor. Fighting with the stearing wheel all day in the wind hear in Colorado, makes for a long day. So did a lot of research at the end of the season and decided on power trans unit, with wireless remote. I installed it when I winterized the boat so have not used it on the lake. It really seamed it work great from any where in the boat during testing. I think I will like it a lot. Check out powrtran.com python stearing unit something like that. They have some good videos. i don't have anything to do with them but looked at a bunch units and I liked this one the best. Let us know what you get? I think you will be on the lakes before the ice comes off hear.
Good luck
CH
I fought with the stearing link from the big motor. Fighting with the stearing wheel all day in the wind hear in Colorado, makes for a long day. So did a lot of research at the end of the season and decided on power trans unit, with wireless remote. I installed it when I winterized the boat so have not used it on the lake. It really seamed it work great from any where in the boat during testing. I think I will like it a lot. Check out powrtran.com python stearing unit something like that. They have some good videos. i don't have anything to do with them but looked at a bunch units and I liked this one the best. Let us know what you get? I think you will be on the lakes before the ice comes off hear.
Good luck
CH
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flashover52
Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2015
- Messages
- 13
I ended up with adding an iPilot to my electric up front for steering and control. I use my kicker for propulsion and the electric is the control. Just another angle....
Last trip out my kicker decided to not run ..... Was able to use electric to finish filling my limit.
Last trip out my kicker decided to not run ..... Was able to use electric to finish filling my limit.
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Garmin TR1 Gold Auto Pilot
I'm just thinking to purchase the TR1 Gold Auto Pilot and install myself. With the TR1 gold that has electrohydraulic for the steering, throttle actuator can be add to the kicker motor(purchase separately). That is a expensive unit but now we have some $$$ to spend. I searched the unit online and their price is from $50 up to $600 different. Garmin manufacturer price is $2,599.99 while Amazon or other Marine Store such as Hoges Marine sale price $2018.14. (Unit part number is same).
If you have installed or own this TR1 Gold on your boat please give me some advice.
Thanks in advance.
I'm just thinking to purchase the TR1 Gold Auto Pilot and install myself. With the TR1 gold that has electrohydraulic for the steering, throttle actuator can be add to the kicker motor(purchase separately). That is a expensive unit but now we have some $$$ to spend. I searched the unit online and their price is from $50 up to $600 different. Garmin manufacturer price is $2,599.99 while Amazon or other Marine Store such as Hoges Marine sale price $2018.14. (Unit part number is same).
If you have installed or own this TR1 Gold on your boat please give me some advice.
Thanks in advance.
KOKANEE
Well-known member
I've had my Remote Troll for 10 years now. I LOVE IT. In the 10 years I've replaced the drive cable once and a power cord once. I bought a new cord and they had me send my old cord back to them and they fixed it and sent it back to me for a spare. I keep it in the boat as a back up. My next one will the wireless remote.
The Remote Troll is nice unit, on my other boat (river boat)that had an older Remote troll and I replaced control switch 2 years ago. It was in Summer and the Kok. season was hot
I couldn't wait for the part order so I bought couple momentary DPDT(Double Poles Double Throw) switches for replacement and spare, I made a switch housing with thin aluminum and it works very good. On the cord I made electric connector, if one fail then it will take less time for replacing.That was nice that Remote Troll fixed the bad switch for your spare. I check their price for the switch&cord about $70 couple years ago.
The trolling bracket on my Crestliner boat was custom made when I had it in early '90, it works very good except the remote steering and throttle control. Time for an upgrade and I found that the TR1 Gold is a good choice for the Honda 9.9HP, it's very spendy and I hope that will working good in a long run.
Best wishes for 2017 fishing.
Garmin TR1 Autopilot installation.
I purchased the TR1 Gold Autopilot in early February. The weather was so cold and my garage doesn't have heater unit. So if there was a day with the temperature between 35 ~ 40 deg F then I will go out to work on my project. I finished the installation at the end of Feb. The last steps are calibrating the compass and throttle rpm verify. The installation wasn't bad at all, there were couple things that take extra time.
1. For the Electrohydraulic mounting area I need to cut a hole size 5" x 8" so the unit will seal about 2" lower that give some clearance from the engine compartment cover.
2. Center floor section need to take out for routing the wiring of the compass unit to the E.H unit, that required the dash side support piece of driver side and passenger side take out too. There was a vinyl container that bolted to that center floor piece for the ice cooler. The fuel tank take about 2/3 the lenght of the boat, so the best area to mount the compass is in that cooler container.
I decided to split the center floor piece between the container and the fuel tank and support them with 2"x.0125 aluminum angle arm. In future if I need to access to the fuel tank area that will be much easier. I also run 1 wire (fishing tape) for future use if purchase the GPS that can communicate with the compass unit.
The other installation such as throttle actuator, hydraulic cylinder + bracket, deckmount switch, remote control very easy.
One error from the installation manual was the connecting hoses to the cylinder. I follow their instruction then it operate backward. Optional that can be correct electronically by enter the code 259 and reversing it, it works. The problem is when the electrohydraulic lost power then it will go back to manufacturer default. So I decided to reversed those hydraulic hoses, it's little messy but in future if it lost power I don't have to worry about the 259 code. I'll send them their error message that I found, that might be correct from the older autopilot version.
Below are few pictures of my project. I hope this will be good unit that serve me for a long time.
To view in sequence is from right to left, I couln't reverse these picture.!!! The limit post picture only 5 per post, there were 3 more pic. on the project album
I purchased the TR1 Gold Autopilot in early February. The weather was so cold and my garage doesn't have heater unit. So if there was a day with the temperature between 35 ~ 40 deg F then I will go out to work on my project. I finished the installation at the end of Feb. The last steps are calibrating the compass and throttle rpm verify. The installation wasn't bad at all, there were couple things that take extra time.
1. For the Electrohydraulic mounting area I need to cut a hole size 5" x 8" so the unit will seal about 2" lower that give some clearance from the engine compartment cover.
2. Center floor section need to take out for routing the wiring of the compass unit to the E.H unit, that required the dash side support piece of driver side and passenger side take out too. There was a vinyl container that bolted to that center floor piece for the ice cooler. The fuel tank take about 2/3 the lenght of the boat, so the best area to mount the compass is in that cooler container.
I decided to split the center floor piece between the container and the fuel tank and support them with 2"x.0125 aluminum angle arm. In future if I need to access to the fuel tank area that will be much easier. I also run 1 wire (fishing tape) for future use if purchase the GPS that can communicate with the compass unit.
The other installation such as throttle actuator, hydraulic cylinder + bracket, deckmount switch, remote control very easy.
One error from the installation manual was the connecting hoses to the cylinder. I follow their instruction then it operate backward. Optional that can be correct electronically by enter the code 259 and reversing it, it works. The problem is when the electrohydraulic lost power then it will go back to manufacturer default. So I decided to reversed those hydraulic hoses, it's little messy but in future if it lost power I don't have to worry about the 259 code. I'll send them their error message that I found, that might be correct from the older autopilot version.
Below are few pictures of my project. I hope this will be good unit that serve me for a long time.
To view in sequence is from right to left, I couln't reverse these picture.!!! The limit post picture only 5 per post, there were 3 more pic. on the project album
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MackayGuy
Well-known member
Nice install on the TR1! Curiosity.....what is the 'residential' outlet mounted in with the EH unit used for?
Hi MackayGuy, The "residential" outlet mounted in the EH unit are the input/output communication cables of the compass, handheld remote, throttle actuator tach sensor/deckmount switch, the other output close to the base of the EH are hydraulic hoses plumb to steering cylinder. Below is the picture of the system layout.
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MackayGuy
Well-known member
In the blue electrical box, outlet and cover plate.....right side of the compartment?
Hahahaha! That receptacle is odd looking eh? That's not a 120V AC but it's 12 VDC for the DR plug in. Why?
When I got a Custom Weld river boat with the electric Walker DR, the previous owner had a local the marine shop wiring that way. I would like to use the electric DR between 2 boats so I put the residential receptacle on my boat. I know it's odd looking for 12VDC plug in. In future when I buy the Cannon electric DR for my boat then that receptacle will be gone.It's sunny today but windy, can't take the boat out to Lucky Peak. May be good time to summerize my boat.
Have a good day MckayGuy.
