Set ups
- Thread starter Gene
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Gene
Well-known member
thanks
the hoochie I think is at around 10 and the spinner is around 14. when running these dodgers is it ok to run them off a clip on your ball? and is there a speed restriction?
the hoochie I think is at around 10 and the spinner is around 14. when running these dodgers is it ok to run them off a clip on your ball? and is there a speed restriction?
MackPrince
Washington Forum MODERATOR
Speed could be all the difference. With the water still being cool the fish are more lethargic and sometimes it takes a random pull on the line or change in speed to get their interest.
onlychild
Kokanee Creek Tackle
I havent and dont know anyone that runs beads and spinners in front of there dodgers those 1st two look like shasta tackel blades and are the same less different decals than RMT blades out of your rigs the first two are also the two I would pick
SilverBullets
Super Moderator
The Shasta Tackle type dodgers (tear drop shape) are made for a bit faster speed. If your trolling slower (around .9-1.2 mph) and the dodger doesn't have a good swing give it some addition bend or switch up to the Seps/Vances type dodgers.
You can clip set-ups with the dodgers off the ball, but I'd advise clipping above on the wire in case you drag the ball on the bottom. If you do hit the bottom just raise the ball up a bit and keep trolling...chances are the lure won't be hung up. Another advantage of clipping above on the wire is it's alot easier to change out your set-ups when you don't have to bend over the side of the boat to clip off the ball. Clipping above lets you keep the ball in the water and not take the chance of having it swinging around and banging against the side of your boat.
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Gene
Well-known member
stuff
Yah I ordered about 70 bucks of garys stuff about 30 of radical glow and about 30 of RMT. im just trying to pair it all with dodgers. if you dont troll the spinner bead stuff with a dodger what do you use..... a lake troll to main line?
Gene
Yah I ordered about 70 bucks of garys stuff about 30 of radical glow and about 30 of RMT. im just trying to pair it all with dodgers. if you dont troll the spinner bead stuff with a dodger what do you use..... a lake troll to main line?
Gene
Duroboat Rider
Active member
They look good for the most part. I would suggest putting a small snubber on after the blade and then run about 8-10 inches from there. I tend to make my own tandem hook rigs and i go with a heavier mono like 12 pound to really help get my hoochies twitching back and forth. If you have too soft of leader you don't get as much action from the blade transferred to your lure.
I also like to have a few soft glow beads stacked above my first hook then the hoochie, can help.
I also like to have a few soft glow beads stacked above my first hook then the hoochie, can help.
smokin' Kokes
Well-known member
with the top 2 sling blades and the Sepps Dodger, i run my lure from 6" to 12" back from the blade. closer for hoohies alone, further back for the bigger stuff. use 15 lb leader, fluorocarbon works well, looking for a stiff line to transfer the blade action back to the lure/bait. also gives more fish before the leader is damaged/replaced.
kokes are not line shy on the troll. they are aggressive.
drop the rig in the water along the boat at troll speed. look for the hoochie/lure to get a kick side to side from the blade.
i use a small UV or glow buoyant corkie ahead of the back hook and push the hoochie part way over it leaving the skirt to dangle behind. really makes for a wild action and explosive hits, like a tuna.
no kick =s no bite.
experiment with leader length, boat speed, blades, colors.
spring time and cold water below 50d F on the surface, i go faster, up to 2.2 mph.
fish with Gary's recurve blades don't produce as much blade/hoochie/lure action as the sling blades. they work great in the spring flat lining on the surface with no weight. lots of fish fight because they are so light.
they also have great florescent light flashing in deep summer fishing with light penetration decreased by algae growth.
with the cold spring water conditions and the fish near the surface, takes lots of drop back especially if fishing flat line. kokes are motor and boat shy.
clear hi vis. spring lake water
surface no weight, at least 100 ft back.
down 10>20 ft, 50 ft back min.
down 20>40 ft, 25 ft back min.
i fish as much as 200 ft back flatline in early spring, lots of room and no ski nuts.
i often fish a dodger/sling blade hoochie behind a set of lake trolls like Cowbells off a downrigger.
mix and match. try lots of greens and pinks but don't be afraid to bring out other colors if they aren't biting.
got to find the fish. kokes will dimple on the surface in the spring, sonar, other fisherman. harder to find when they are shallow even with 50 kz wide angle sonar.
they tend to hang along a depth line, example 25ft down in 110 ft of water.
when you get a hit, a fish or find a school immediately turn the boat and go back throught them. i do this fishing by myself also.
note your position in relation to the shore features, tree stump rock
time of day and sun angle affects bite also
don't tell my wife how much I spend on fishing gear. any new koke toys out there?
kokes are not line shy on the troll. they are aggressive.
drop the rig in the water along the boat at troll speed. look for the hoochie/lure to get a kick side to side from the blade.
i use a small UV or glow buoyant corkie ahead of the back hook and push the hoochie part way over it leaving the skirt to dangle behind. really makes for a wild action and explosive hits, like a tuna.
no kick =s no bite.
experiment with leader length, boat speed, blades, colors.
spring time and cold water below 50d F on the surface, i go faster, up to 2.2 mph.
fish with Gary's recurve blades don't produce as much blade/hoochie/lure action as the sling blades. they work great in the spring flat lining on the surface with no weight. lots of fish fight because they are so light.
they also have great florescent light flashing in deep summer fishing with light penetration decreased by algae growth.
with the cold spring water conditions and the fish near the surface, takes lots of drop back especially if fishing flat line. kokes are motor and boat shy.
clear hi vis. spring lake water
surface no weight, at least 100 ft back.
down 10>20 ft, 50 ft back min.
down 20>40 ft, 25 ft back min.
i fish as much as 200 ft back flatline in early spring, lots of room and no ski nuts.
i often fish a dodger/sling blade hoochie behind a set of lake trolls like Cowbells off a downrigger.
mix and match. try lots of greens and pinks but don't be afraid to bring out other colors if they aren't biting.
got to find the fish. kokes will dimple on the surface in the spring, sonar, other fisherman. harder to find when they are shallow even with 50 kz wide angle sonar.
they tend to hang along a depth line, example 25ft down in 110 ft of water.
when you get a hit, a fish or find a school immediately turn the boat and go back throught them. i do this fishing by myself also.
note your position in relation to the shore features, tree stump rock
time of day and sun angle affects bite also
don't tell my wife how much I spend on fishing gear. any new koke toys out there?
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skookum9
Well-known member
Smokin'Kokes, that was some awesome advice. I'm going to try to remember that for the next time I'm trolling for the kokes. I really appreciate your input here, thanks.
Smalma
Well-known member
Gene Smokin kokes has provide some great advice. your gear looks to be a good start. As mentioned 10 inch leaders (8 to 12 inches) is about right for the hoochies and other lures that rely on the dodger/blade to provide the action. For my spinners I typically run about 30 inch leaders.
If I were just strating kokanee fishing I would start with a couple 4/0 dodgers; if I had to pick two it would be silver with reflective tape (like your Sepps) and a half and half. Many folks probably don't but many of the small dodgers on the markert (Sepps, Vance) are stamped by Gold Star. They make the blanks and finish to the specs of the company whose names go the final product. You can save a buck or two by the more generic Gold Star though I have to admit other than a couple basic "colors" most of mine are some one's other than Gold Star. What is important that the small dodgers use thin metal in the blank - they will kick better at slower speeds.
I would then put my money in a handful of spinners - wedding rings work great and have caught an awful lot of kokanee. Need a couple in reds and greens with silver and brass blades. Eventually you would want to add other colors as well as plated blades (gold and silver) as well as a variety of blade shapes. Would also have a handful of hoochies again start with basics; pink, green splatter back and glow in dark. If I have to pick a single size it would be 1.5 inches. You will eventually add more colors and some smaller hoockies - I have been having excellent luck (the catch from the last couple days are in the smoker as I write this) the last couple weeks on Stevens with 1.2 hoochies.
Eventually one will want addition attractors such as sling blades, side kicks, salmon wobblers, string of blades, etc. If you are like most of us you will also add a variety of other lures - apex lures, spoons, spin glows, Wee tads, and a wide variety of beads.
I second big time Smoking kokes comment about the fish being spooked by the boat. This is especially true with the early season fish when they are near the surface. The fish are more spooked by the motor than the boat. I can fish closer to the my boat when using the electric than with gas motor. Once we get below 10 the distance behind the boat does not be as great - I advocate the rule of 100 - the sum of your downrigger depth and the gear drop back behind the ball should be at least 100 - if you have the gear set at 20 feet then a 80 foot drop will be a effective distance. While it is always nto necessary to drop the gear that far back I find it better to be too far than not far enough.
The best advice is if you are not getting bite change something. Most successful kokanee nuts I know are constantly changing gear, their speed and depth at which they are fishing. If two or more rods are being deployed fish different depths and gear until the fish tell you their preference. It is the norm to set the best depth and preferred gear to change from day to day and even hour to hour.
Tight lines
Curt
If I were just strating kokanee fishing I would start with a couple 4/0 dodgers; if I had to pick two it would be silver with reflective tape (like your Sepps) and a half and half. Many folks probably don't but many of the small dodgers on the markert (Sepps, Vance) are stamped by Gold Star. They make the blanks and finish to the specs of the company whose names go the final product. You can save a buck or two by the more generic Gold Star though I have to admit other than a couple basic "colors" most of mine are some one's other than Gold Star. What is important that the small dodgers use thin metal in the blank - they will kick better at slower speeds.
I would then put my money in a handful of spinners - wedding rings work great and have caught an awful lot of kokanee. Need a couple in reds and greens with silver and brass blades. Eventually you would want to add other colors as well as plated blades (gold and silver) as well as a variety of blade shapes. Would also have a handful of hoochies again start with basics; pink, green splatter back and glow in dark. If I have to pick a single size it would be 1.5 inches. You will eventually add more colors and some smaller hoockies - I have been having excellent luck (the catch from the last couple days are in the smoker as I write this) the last couple weeks on Stevens with 1.2 hoochies.
Eventually one will want addition attractors such as sling blades, side kicks, salmon wobblers, string of blades, etc. If you are like most of us you will also add a variety of other lures - apex lures, spoons, spin glows, Wee tads, and a wide variety of beads.
I second big time Smoking kokes comment about the fish being spooked by the boat. This is especially true with the early season fish when they are near the surface. The fish are more spooked by the motor than the boat. I can fish closer to the my boat when using the electric than with gas motor. Once we get below 10 the distance behind the boat does not be as great - I advocate the rule of 100 - the sum of your downrigger depth and the gear drop back behind the ball should be at least 100 - if you have the gear set at 20 feet then a 80 foot drop will be a effective distance. While it is always nto necessary to drop the gear that far back I find it better to be too far than not far enough.
The best advice is if you are not getting bite change something. Most successful kokanee nuts I know are constantly changing gear, their speed and depth at which they are fishing. If two or more rods are being deployed fish different depths and gear until the fish tell you their preference. It is the norm to set the best depth and preferred gear to change from day to day and even hour to hour.
Tight lines
Curt
Gene
Well-known member
Thanks Curt,
your info is awsome gonna print most of your threads. thanks for all your help. I also learned lastnight how to tie a double hook leader so now I can make my own stuff !, one question on that, is there some kind of adhesive I put on the line wrapped around the hook ?
thanks again, Gene
your info is awsome gonna print most of your threads. thanks for all your help. I also learned lastnight how to tie a double hook leader so now I can make my own stuff !, one question on that, is there some kind of adhesive I put on the line wrapped around the hook ?
thanks again, Gene
Winterun
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 12, 2010
- Messages
- 140
I use this as my favorite rig! Gamakatsu's Flat Blade Spinner Rig
I modify it of course for optimum performance. By retying with Gamakatsu Split Shot Drop shot hooks, and 10# flouro, as it comes with 8# mono. Fished with a UV dodger that matches the beads or hootchie I'm using at the time.
I modify it of course for optimum performance. By retying with Gamakatsu Split Shot Drop shot hooks, and 10# flouro, as it comes with 8# mono. Fished with a UV dodger that matches the beads or hootchie I'm using at the time.
