share your fishing line reviews

[kok-head]

this year I tried saving some money with a line I've never used before, the line is a mono from Stren called "high impact", I used it for everything this year from kokanee to catfish, the sharp teeth of the rainbows and kokanee had a bit more trouble wearing this line out than the typical lines I've used in recent years, I was really impressed with the stuff and it was less money than Trilene big game which is probably the best price in it's class of mono lines and is my go-to line normally

I just finished a stress test on the Stren, I egg-loop snelled a hook with some 15lb and I picked up 18lbs without it breaking, the line is high enough quality I might never again use Maxima ultragreen for kings and steelhead

Maxima has impressive qualities but the price is a bit ridiculous lately

lets hear about what lines ya'll have had good luck with the last 1 or 2 yrs and if anyone has tried any stress tests on the more popular lines please share

 

[dragonfly]

I believe all mono line will work as advertised when it comes to breaking strength . to me the difference lies in the performance and what the user expects. I want one that has a limber characteristic and memory with a predictable stretch and maxima has it, also I fish 4 downriggers and up to 8 rods and each 2 rods have a different color line so if a fish decides to see how many lines he can take with him it makes it a lot easier to untangle and maxima has clear, green, red, and hi vis. yellow. I use a backer and change my line out every other year and strip off one to two hundred feet on the 2nd year. so line it is not a big expense to me. but I only use 8 lb test and fish kokanee but unintentionally hook planted Chinook and mack and I have never broken a line yet. but in all fairness I haven't tried any of the new monos in the last 5 years because I find no reason to change from maxima for the performance. dfly

 

[smokepoles]

I put 10 lb yo-zuri hybrid on all four of my koke rods that are the Vances's 7'6" spiral wrap with Convector 15 line counter reels. I generally look more at the diameter of a line than the lb rating, as manufacturers can do most whatever they want with a rating, particularly to underrate a line so that consumers think it is 'strong'. The 10 lb YoZuri diameter is good for accurate reading of my counters, a bit more stretch than all flouro, tough, doesn't soak up water like all nylon mono, resists UV damage, and sure is strong. Best is the price - just check ebay once in a while and some great deals on bulk spools. I previously was using 12 lb Berkly Sensation, another hybrid, and liked that line a lot. However, the 10 yozuri is almost same diameter as the 12 Sensation, but the Yo-zuri is only fraction of the price. In fact, really no need to use a backer line to save expense. I'm going to try some of the 8 lb Yo Zuri hybrid ultra soft on my spinning reels and rods used for ice fishing lake trout and big cutts at Bear lake.

 

[platypus]

--I have several reels.. some with spools different lines... Just got some of Stewart's Line Reminder Stickers.. small peal and stick which has date of line pound test... others I know have their spools numbered and keep a log or spread sheet with the last changed date and other details on the line.
--Some may think keeping a line log may be excessive but if you want to fine tune the feel and function of your gear line can be used to significantly change the way your rod and reel react.
--I use Platypus line from Australia.. it is a premium line and has many options. In particular I like the consistency spool to spool as it is IGFA standard and can even get pre tested mono or braid if IGFA records are important. I use the various line because of the consistency of break point which is very close to the # test given on the line.
--They also have super 100 which is their thin diameter.
--lo-stretch mono for jig fishing or long line troll .
-- classic... several colours and is their least expensive as suggested colour can be used for line management when trolling several lines.
--Several braids... sinking braid great for casting or jig fishing helps get your lure down, jig braid with colour bands for counting depth and a new series of braid that I haven't tried yet but am planing to use it for fly line backing on smaller reels allowing for more backing when required.

--This line is not cheap even in Australia plus mailing charges not for the faint of heart. Is available at some retail stores in Canada that ship to USA.
--For thin German made line I use DAM tectan again it is hard to find where I live but is being more agressively marketed in Europe. They also have some specialty casting lines.
--Stroft leader line for thin diameter to # test with fly

--Other lines I favour are good old Ultra Green for general fishing and leader... thicker diameter has good abraision resistance mainly use it for river fishing but troll with it for larger fish as well.


--The beauty of the thin diameter lines is apparent when downrigger fishing.. less drag less weight required to get it to depth. Equally important if not using downriggers

 

[rainORsnow1]

I have all my koke reels spooled with 15lb spider wire. They were respooled with them two seasons ago and I had no worries of them rotting like mono so I left the line on this season.

Never had any problems as it is 15lb test and even the wickiup bruisers can't brake that.
But unfortunately next season I will be making a change.

The last couple seasons I've been using my jarod Johnson lami for coho which is also my favorite koke rod. Great fight!
But my first coho hooked this year broke my line and it was no pig.
Retied and the line snapped in my hand as I tightened the not. My rods don't set in the sun and there's no reason the line should of deteriorated that fast.
So...... Change has to be made.

 

[platypus]

--nicks and compressions in the line can cause breakage... using the same spot each time for downrigger clip or if the clip has a rough spot.
--if line breaks maybe try removing a large portion of the line that is usually in the watter rather than giving up on it. I am not much for reversing line unless you remove the portion that was in the water. You can replace the line cut with backing. If you just reverse the line it may only break when you get your trophy fish and it starts to spool you.
--I find with mono you can usually see or feel where a compression or kink is but more difficult with braid.

 

[mrmike]

Keep it simple stay with what works. I really can't find much difference in different brands I fish for numerious species of fish. I always use the same knot why because it always works from 6 to 8 ft sturgeon to 12 inch kokanee to 40# Chinook. I use P line and Maxiima in 8 to 10# mono for kokanee I use braided for Salmon I used Tuff line grn for years never breaks same with mono. Last time I broke a fish off was a 50#plus Chinook in between the hooks my 30# mooching line (MONO)was cut by his teeth. I now use 40# line . Please explain how one can break a 1 to 3 # kokanee off in a boat using 8 to 10# test line with a noodle rod I don't think you do it if you tried. Were talking chevy vs ford its what you like. For steelhead/Salmon with or under a bobber I use braided because it floats and easy to mend. I ALWAYS use flouro carbon leaders on everything I fish with and I stay with the two brands I mentioned WHY because they work for me. With the large amount of money invested with a boat, equipment I surely not going to worry about a few dollars difference in flouro vs regular mono it works for me. If you want to save money on a cheaper line go ahead, but I won't. One of the main reason I'm using 8 & 10 # mono I will use my reel for different species like walleye and even steelhead. I fished the blackbird trout tournament this year at diamond lake and went to 4 & 6 # line for trout it was P line. I can't stress enough keep it simple.

 

[rainORsnow1]

Thanks for the advice gents.... Makes sense..

 

[platypus]

--I use what I believe to be premium line. I have had some people try the line and claim it is junk... never use it again while others tell me they may have had one line related break of over several years of use.
--I think it is clear that if you know your gear you can narrow down what caused the break off. I know from a tournament experience using fluoro leader from .. the same spool... one person had three unexplained break offs the other had none. There were 10 lb plus rainbows.
--Both using same knot or so they thought... the only thing they could figure was that one lubricated the knot more than the other. Given they had similar gear and could find no issue with reel drag etc and that the break offs were occuring at the knot. It can happen but often people will say they had a bad batch of line.. maybe as in this case it was a minor thing that they were doing slightly differen that was causing the problem.

--My point is you have to take a look at the whole package rather than just blaim the line.

 

[salmonsam]

i do alot of steelhead drift fishing and use p line100% fluoro with great results were low visibility and abrasion resistance is important fluoro coated line does not even compare only thing about the 100% is being spendy but you get what you pay for and Palomar knots are a must

 

[kootne]

I'm no expert, but smart enough to figure out go with what puts more fish in the boat. So for me that is the 15# spider wire line. My wife and I troll for kokes only and have several rod /reel/ line setups and what we have found is you can drag a fish around the lake for a long time if you don't know he's there. The spider wire seems to have much less stretch so the action of the fish is much more apparent on the rod tip. Mono line must have a lot more stretch which should be good for soft mouths but we will get 3 or 4 on the spider line and then reel the mono line rod in and there will be a fish we had no idea was there. So next time out I will have spider line on both reels. Maybe bigger fish would have enough tug to overcome this. We have been getting 9" fish this fall. Fishing 40-60' deep with small cowbells/wedding rings, and 1-2 oz. wieght, trolling slow with 30# electric motor. Got 51 last time out so we are learning.
kootne

 

[mrmike]

Kootne reading your post I have breaded line on just about every reel I own except my kokanee reels. I too last year was dragging kokanee around didn't know were attached to the down rigger more than I want folks to know. I changed over from my snaps releases on my downriggers to the new Chamberlain releases problem solved. I could see were you may have problems with smaller fish. Use what works for you.

 

[dragonfly]

not trying to get off subject but I second the chamberlains we run up to 8 at a time and can't afford wasting time dragging fish but I am into the practice of if I have been marking fish for 10 min and no takes I am changing out and finding something that will work and the chamberlains make it fast and easy. dfly

 

[bob r]

We switched to braid about 8 years ago or so for all our kokanee reels, Melanie switched her trout flat-lining spinning reel to braid as well, mine still is in mono (I generally run 1 or 2 rods on downrigger, but if she sticks a couple of fish I switch over but I'm used to mono for flatlining). She likes braid for jigging as well, I agree.When trolling we definitly had issues with mono on downrigger for seeing bites of smaller fish and occasionally larger fish. I've had larger trout barely tap it even though solidly hooked and smaller fish I thought were monsters by the way they were "knockin" on it. I had one larger Dolly Varden make the rod tip move up and down an inch or two very slowly, didn't know what the heck was going on 'till I pulled line out of clip, then all hell broke loose.I use Maxima for all mono uses except leaders, P-line flourocarbon for all leaders but salt water use mono for leaders bottom fishing as I think good mono nicks less. I use cannon releases most of the time but I've got a shuttle hawk and the release for that is not rubber-padded the same way, I may have to watch it for fraying line, the only fish we've broken off for at least 10 years was on braid, frayed at the pinch point of downrigger. I check line regularly for frays now, but the cannon release doesn't seem to fray them and I haven't noticed nicking or fraying from the shuttle hawk release yet, but this is the 1st season using it. I use braid on our larger salmon rods as well, (30 lb.) seems to hook up fish better without the stretch of mono.Pulled up a hali of about 70 lbs. on it, power pro.Bob R