Trailer Lights

[Full_Monte]

I've had a love/hate relationship with boat trailer lights during my life. They have always been very unreliable for me, succumbing to corrosion internally far too often. Finally, I got rid of all of them and put on a removable light bar on the back of the boat. Prior to launching, I remove the light bar and the wiring from the trailer, so that it never gets wet. I've had much better luck with light longevity doing this, but I'm not legal with all the side markers and it's a pain to deal with the light bar at the launch ramp. So the question for all you experts is "What's the best approach?" Are any of the newer lights more reliable than the older ones? How do I make my lighting system work every time, all the time? Thanks for any help!

 

[HiTechKoke]

Hey Monte,

Did you go to LED lights or the bulb variety? I was sick and tired with the original bulb setup and did a full LED replacement last year and have never looked back.

Kevin

 

[Full_Monte]

I'm still using incandescent bulbs. I will look at the LED ones. How are the wire connections protected from corrosion?

 

[Bduck]

I'm in agreement with HTK. LED's are the only way to go. I did solder connections for a more positive hookup without the possibility of any corrosion buildup at those joints.

 

[SuperD]

If you go with standard connections, you just have to be liberal with the dialetric grease or vaseline on the connectors.

 

[DLM]

Hey Monte,

and did a full LED replacement last year and have never looked back.

Kevin

Then how do you know they are working.laugh hystlaugh hystlaugh hyst

Sorry guys, just could not resist my childish side.

 

[SuperD]

LEDs aren't a guaranteed fix. There are a lot of cheap "made in .....) you fill in the blank LEDs out there. You have to get quality (expensive) LEDs to stand a chance.

 

[Bullitt]

+1

On my current trailer (Tricker) I took the LED option and have not had one issue in 4 years and hundreds of launchings. I don't even unplug the lights. Well worth the money and no headaches.

 

[Full_Monte]

I just went into West Marine and looked at the LED lights.
There were the Petersens and the Grotes. I couldn't see much in the packages, but I did notice that the hookup wires went through a hole in the underside of the case. That tells me that water will get inside. If the LEDs and circuit boards are potted, it MIGHT not be an issue. I just have a mistrust of those holes. I must have bought 8 sets of lights that quit working in a short amount of time.

 

[SuperD]

On my non LED trailer lights I was having a terrible time with them filling up with water. Now I use 3M 5200 on all the holes and welded plastic seams. I now get years of service versus months. Full Monte, which ever way you go, I recommend this little extra protection.

 

[Full_Monte]

LEDs aren't a guaranteed fix. There are a lot of cheap "made in .....) you fill in the blank LEDs out there. You have to get quality (expensive) LEDs to stand a chance.

What brand do you recommend? Optronics? Grote? Which are sealed the best?
Thanks!

 

[Full_Monte]

I just read an interesting factoid: four times as many trailer lights are sold per year as there are trailerable boats in the U.S. Apparently, they are viewed by the manufacturers as a disposable item and have been traditionally designed for short life.

 

[HiTechKoke]

What brand do you recommend? Optronics? Grote? Which are sealed the best?
Thanks!

I went with the Peterson Piranha lights...

http://www.pmlights.com/leds.cfm


I found them online in several places and on Amazon too... free shipping. I have these for the side markers on the fender and main tail lights. As for connections if I solder them which I normally do then I'll use a resin based shrink wrap and them go over that connection with this wonderful product I discovered at eh ISE show a few years ago... Rescue Tape. This stuff is amazing.

http://www.rescuetape.com/

and everyone should have a roll on their boat. It is not cheap but get a 3-pack and I don't think you will be disappointed as it has a lot of applications. Think of it as advanced duct tape in a sense but less wide. The fact it seals on itself is pretty cool.

Kevin

 

[smokin' Kokes]

i went with the low cost Harbor Freight sealed rectangular marine LEDs 4 years ago. got tired of replacing the $100 LED sets every couple years.
i salt water dunk 10>20 times a year, often by myself so the trailer can set in the salt chuck for 20 minutes or more.
haven't lost a single LED. potted LEDs lots of light.
soldered all the connections and used sealer lined heat shrink.
ran separate ground wire instead of frame garbage.

the old wire looked like black powder
used only tinned marine CG spec'd wire

 

[Full_Monte]

I didn't know they made tinned wire sets for boat trailer use. Or, are you making your wires up from wire spools?
I know what you mean by "powdered" wires...I've had that experience myself.

 

[DLM]

I must be lucky having run the factory installed regular bulb lights for three years now with no problems. I keep looking at the LED units but then tell myself not to switch over until there is a problem.

Now watch, they will go to heck this weekend....

 

[kok-head]

i went with the low cost Harbor Freight sealed rectangular marine LEDs 4 years ago. got tired of replacing the $100 LED sets every couple years.
i salt water dunk 10>20 times a year, often by myself so the trailer can set in the salt chuck for 20 minutes or more.
haven't lost a single LED. potted LEDs lots of light.
soldered all the connections and used sealer lined heat shrink.
ran separate ground wire instead of frame garbage.

the old wire looked like black powder
used only tinned marine CG spec'd wire

x2 on the harbor freight lights, 2 full boating seasons with no issues

 

[lowe1648mt]

x2 on the harbor freight lights, 2 full boating seasons with no issues

Make it a season and a half for me. Dielectric Grease and shrink tube on all connections. ( the good kind -self sealing)
Over the years (35) working at marinas I have replaced hundreds of bulbs, lites, and connectors. Even some LED lites get water inside. Sealing with Sikaflex or 5200 is not a bad idea.