I have manual Scotty 1050s and it would sure be nice to not have to raise and lower the ball after every strike. I do not want to run 2 poles on one downrigger just make it faster and easier to get my rig back to depth after a strike or better yet a catch. Does anyone use these? If so, do you recommend a brand? Any input would be great! Thanks Robert.
Using a shuttle hawk?
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bob r
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I believe that the shuttle hawk is made by shasta tackle or Rocky Mountain Tackle, I can't remember which. I haven't seen any other types besides shuttle hawk. If you go with these use a connector between the rear hole and your downrigger line. This will keep it from dropping off and sinking out of site. They recomend an elastic band to keep this from happening but it will fail. I crimp a loop on the rear hole ( I use a lite plastic covered wire leader but stiff mono will also work, it should be slightly longer then the distance of shuttle hawk from hole to hole.) and a snap swivel to fasten to the downrigger line. It goes on the top side of shuttle hawk.It will only rise when moving at trolling speed and released. They can be difficult with high gunnels as far as reaching over and grabbing them. Works great on our canoe but not so much on a 20 ft. boat. Definitely helps as far as cranking up downrigger balls with short strikes and hooked fish. Bob R
Hi,
I use a manual downrigger and I have the same idea of using the shuttle hawk to avoid raising and lowering the ball after every strike. The difficulty I experienced is that when the shuttle hawk is descending with the fishing line, the drag from water also pull the fishing line away from the downrigger cable. I cannot tell if the fishing line is being pulled out by the water or by the shuttle hawk. If I try tightening the line, it feels like I could be pulling up shuttle hawk as well. So at the end, I have no idea the depth of the shuttle hawk. I wonder if anyone has some insight as how to use it to have the confidence that the shuttle hawk is indeed at the depth you like it to stop. Thank you, Joe.
I use a manual downrigger and I have the same idea of using the shuttle hawk to avoid raising and lowering the ball after every strike. The difficulty I experienced is that when the shuttle hawk is descending with the fishing line, the drag from water also pull the fishing line away from the downrigger cable. I cannot tell if the fishing line is being pulled out by the water or by the shuttle hawk. If I try tightening the line, it feels like I could be pulling up shuttle hawk as well. So at the end, I have no idea the depth of the shuttle hawk. I wonder if anyone has some insight as how to use it to have the confidence that the shuttle hawk is indeed at the depth you like it to stop. Thank you, Joe.
bob r
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A decent bottom finder will show both your downrigger ball and the shuttle hawk. I haven't had any trouble with my line being blown back by the shuttle hawk, using it means your release is about 1 to 1 1/2 ft. behind your cable. I haven't had an issue seeing bites on it either, I used it as a stacker to run a 2nd rod as my transom on the canoe wasn't wide enough for 2 downriggers. That way when the bottom rod went off we could continue trolling with the upper rod while playing the lower fish as well as the other way around. Good luck, bob r
Shuttle hawks are easy to make. I have made several of them for a couple of dollars each excluding the price of the clip. You can design them so there isn't any way for them to come off your downrigger cable. I have used mine down to 65 ft without much problems. I have better luck if I hold onto the line as it goes down. If you need more information let me know.
COfisherman
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Save your money.
I bought 6 of these things and they worked about 3 time before the cable cut a grove in the soft plastic and then they don’t return to the suface or they won’t dive again. I tried the epoxyed cut washer and after being in the wat a few trips the epoxy comes loose. And they don’t work any more. Great idea very bad function.
CH101thumbsdown101
I bought 6 of these things and they worked about 3 time before the cable cut a grove in the soft plastic and then they don’t return to the suface or they won’t dive again. I tried the epoxyed cut washer and after being in the wat a few trips the epoxy comes loose. And they don’t work any more. Great idea very bad function.
CH101thumbsdown101
I read somewhere that a 8 ounce sinker weight and a release clip attached to a cheap metal shower curtain rod clip works very well. If you have several ready to go you just clip them to the cable and let them stack up till you bring the ball up. I will give it a try and let you all know.
bob r
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I thought the whole idea was to not have to crank up your downrigger ball everytime you have a bite. As far as the "cable" cutting through the plastic, I use braid on my downrigger . The kinking of the wire and the buzz from the noise was too much, changed 15 years ago, never looked back. These are good products, not crap as some have suggested. The modification I discussed earlier does work just fine. Bob R
Many thanks to H2Oguy sharing his DIY method for SH and the tip of using it. I realized that I can actually add weight to the back of SH so that it has stronger sinking force. So I did and make sure that the modified SH will still come up under my normal trolling speed. I did notice the change in my line position when the SH is reaching the end of cable relative to that when the SH is descending. I caught Kokanee at the desired depth of 25 ft (saw them on the FF) using the modified SH. I still can't see my SH on my FF but the DR ball. But I think it works for me now. Just thought I would share my experience. thumbsup
