Okay, the first trick with braid is to not let any slack in it, slack can and eventually will cause a tangle. Usually, tangles in braid are not a problem and come out quite easily, but who want's to get a tangle when you want to be fishing. Keeping at least a light tension on your line will eliminate this problem. The next trick is probably the most important one and that is the use of the palomar knot. An improved clinch knot will snap like you're using rotten thread but the palomar knot will hold a lot more weight than the line's are rated. Other knots can be modified to make them work but the palomar is by far the easiest, fastest and best choice for braid. And the next most important thing is to not try and tie the braid directly to the spool arbor. I use a short piece of heavier mono to make the anchor to the arbor and then tie a uni to uni knot to join the mono to the braid. On spin reels I like to use 8lbs braid, in either fireline or spiderwire, and use either 12 or 15lbs mono for the arbor anchor.
Earlier this year there began some discussion here about using braid for trolling being a bad idea so this year I paid particular attention to the flaws and problems that others said would happen. Not one problem occurred while using the braided line. I even tried trolling with one line of braid running out and two mono lines running out and still no problem. The one thing that I think might be a problem is a downrigger release. These braids are so small and so slippery that it might be a real trick to get the releases to hold onto them. And even this can be solved but it might require an extra effort.
The reason why I recommend the hi vis yellow braid is because these lines are so small that if they are not brightly colored you can't tell where your line is or at what angle it is descending. Also, in the event that you do get a small tangle, the bright colored line will make it easier to undo. And if you're worried about the line spooking the fish, don't be. Fish are not as line shy as people like to make them out to be. Most of the difference between the success of one line weight or another has more to do with the action that a heavier line will remove from your presentation, or in the case of a hoochie behind a dodger, the lighter lines won't telegraph the desired motion. I have used the hi vis line right next to the dark green and have experienced zero difference in their impact on the number of strikes between the two.
One real advantage that the braids will give you that has helped to increase my catch rate with them is the fact that they cut through the water so much better that you won't need as much weight to get down just as deep.
Since you said that you are using pink and white successfully, I recommend that if you want to try jigs, you stay with pink and white, at least at first. I am a big fan of the 1/2 oz pink and white gibbs minnow. I discovered this lure at the sporting goods store several years ago and it quickly became my favorite jig. Even if it were to cost twice as much as some other lure, it is the one I would buy, without a doubt. Now try casting this jig out to one of the jumpers you said you are seeing and let it sink just a few seconds and then try jigging and reeling it back to the boat. Remember not to work it too fast or too aggressively because this will turn the fish off to it. You need only jig it maybe a foot or so and then stop for a couple of seconds while you feel for a fish to strike as it sinks and then jig it again. Make sure that if you're not getting any strikes that you try to wait a little longer between jig motions and maybe try using even less motion when you do. This makes it harder to hook them but it increases the number of strikes you will get. From what you described about the fishing conditions you experienced, you will have a lot of fun learning to use these jigs effectively. Let me know how it works for you.