Downrigger weight question for the gurus

[carlz]

I have scotty depthpower downriggers. Years ago was using 8# balls, last year after an unfortunate meeting with the bottom, I had to buy additiona weights, thought I would try 6# to go with my natural laziness. The lb do not want to pull out the line when the brake is adjusted per scotty standards. Called Scotty, they said they recommended at least 8 lb weights. So since I am looking at getting new weights anyway, what shape are folks using? Round ball, Ball with Rudder, fish shaped etc? Your assistance to this rookie is greatly appreciated. PS this Saturday was so foggy at merwin , I literally was trolling by use of depthfinder and compass course. ( have not gone gps yet)

Carl

 

[SuperD]

Carl,
You mentioned you had an unfortunate meeting with the bottom. I have different sets of weights for different fishing situations. I have my nice, shiny Koke weights that only get used when fishing in suspended water and then my beat up, ugly weights for fishing closer to the bottom. Ball weights work like any other weight but provide more surface area for blow back and potential for hanging up on the bottom. Ball weights also tend to create more sonar screen clutter. I still use pancake weights on occasion but have moved more toward the stick weights. In that arena, one can go from high priced stainless sticks to home made pipe or rebar. Again, I have both. Stainless for ocean and suspended kokes and the rebar for bottom bouncing.

 

[liketrolling]

Carl,
You mentioned you had an unfortunate meeting with the bottom. I have different sets of weights for different fishing situations. I have my nice, shiny Koke weights that only get used when fishing in suspended water and then my beat up, ugly weights for fishing closer to the bottom. Ball weights work like any other weight but provide more surface area for blow back and potential for hanging up on the bottom. Ball weights also tend to create more sonar screen clutter. I still use pancake weights on occasion but have moved more toward the stick weights. In that arena, one can go from high priced stainless sticks to home made pipe or rebar. Again, I have both. Stainless for ocean and suspended kokes and the rebar for bottom bouncing.

saw your post and called my son to make a stick downrigger ball. this is what he came up with, did not cost me anything. the weight is 10 lb on each. I don't know if it will work are what it will look like on the fishfinder
View attachment 7793

 

[terek]

Carl,
You mentioned you had an unfortunate meeting with the bottom. I have different sets of weights for different fishing situations. I have my nice, shiny Koke weights that only get used when fishing in suspended water and then my beat up, ugly weights for fishing closer to the bottom. Ball weights work like any other weight but provide more surface area for blow back and potential for hanging up on the bottom. Ball weights also tend to create more sonar screen clutter. I still use pancake weights on occasion but have moved more toward the stick weights. In that arena, one can go from high priced stainless sticks to home made pipe or rebar. Again, I have both. Stainless for ocean and suspended kokes and the rebar for bottom bouncing.

i have not been able to find any stick weights for sale anywhere. Are you all just making them, or am i missing something?

 

[flashover52]

Stainless weights are available at: http://www.bottomlinetackle.com/downriggerproduc/page1.html. $40 for 8 lb

Not as nice as Drgnfly's.....but they are commercially available..

 

[kelson]

View attachment 7822

I said earlier that i would attempt to sketch how i set up my braid and lanyard system i use on my Scotty electric DRs. I hope these rough diagrams will help with the communication. This system has several advantages: One: the larger diameter lanyard is easier on the hands when placing the DR ball in and out of the boat. Two: the lanyard material (my tackle guy calls it halibut cord) is very strong, abrasion resistant and won't get trapped between the end pulley and its housing. Three: you can rig it so the ball is never in a position (when automatic stop is used) where it can swing into the boat hull and gunnel. Four: it creates an auto stop feature on the braid end of the lanyard. I've fished with this system for several years and with a re-tie every 3 months or so, knock on wood....i haven't experienced any failures. One note: I do put an additional plastic auto stop part on the cable so that the first stop leaves the ball in the water and the release clip line in a position for resetting my gear. With an active fish on I simply turn the retrieve to auto again and the ball and clip stop near the end pulley on the DR.... both out of the water, the way of the fish and away from the boat. Note: make certain that the lanyard is sized so that it is at this upper most position with the boom on your DR (if adjustable) at full extension or you may break at the lanyard to braid junction. I said earlier that i would attempt to sketch how i set up my braid and lanyard system i use on my Scotty electric DRs. I hope these rough diagrams will help with the communication. This system has several advantages: One: the larger diameter lanyard is easier on the hands when placing the DR ball in and out of the boat. Two: the lanyard material (my tackle guy calls it halibut cord) is very strong, abrasion resistant and won't get trapped between the end pulley and its housing. Three: you can rig it so the ball is never in a position (when automatic stop is used) where it can swing into the boat hull and gunnel. Four: it creates an auto stop feature on the braid end of the lanyard. I've fished with this system for several years and with a re-tie every 3 months or so, knock on wood....i haven't experienced any failures. One note: I do put an additional plastic auto stop part on the cable so that the first stop leaves the ball in the water and the release clip line in a position for resetting my gear. With an active fish on I simply turn the retrieve to auto again and the ball and clip stop near the end pulley on the DR.... both out of the water, the way of the fish and away from the boat. Note: make certain that the lanyard is sized so that it is at this upper most position with the boom on your DR (if adjustable) at full extension or you may break at the lanyard to braid junction.
Sorry about the attachments both will open.
K