May have been discussed before: Plastidip for Downrigger Weights.

[KokeRook]

I had a all lead Downrigger weight that I was hoping to find a way to rubber or vinyl coat. I came across a product called "Plastidip"...which in spite of the name came in a rattle spray can.

After reading about the theory of positive Ion's and the trolling wire and ball I wanted to "coat" my weight with a product that would help with dampening the electrical issue while protecting the weight.

After some research I came across , purchased, and applied a product called palstidip. Is it as "pretty" as a mfg coated weight...no

Is it an easy to apply, effective, and definitely workable solution: YES.
Feel is Rubbery and durable.

I sprayed this 8lb lead ball with the Gun Metal Gray Plastidip (4 Coats).

My thinking with the gray is that is is not as contrasting in the water like Black would be. Then again i use the 100' rule so probably not an issue.

Anybody else use this product?
How does it hold up ?

Thanks again for your input and help.

 

[SuperD]

Too expensive and it does not hold up.

 

[sawtooth]

I have used it on several of my weights. It holds up well, and can be reapplied to make minor repairs. Rubber coating also reduces marking up the inside of the boat.

 

[rainORsnow1]

I believe the current your thinking of is caused by the cable from the DR. Not the ball.
Traditionally the coated balls are for longevity. Especially in the salt.
But hey, I'm sure you improved the lifetime of your ball

 

[dragonfly]

when I was running balls I got the plastidip from napa in the 14.5 oz can and painted it on it worked very well ( it was a pain to get off when I melted them down when making my stick weights) and was tuff even when drug on the bottom. I don't know about the spray I don't know if you can put it on as thick to make it tuff enough. but to get away from any chance of electrical interaction just run a snubber it totally isolates the ball or stick weight. also I have tried all kinds of colors and reflective tape on the balls and my ss stick weights and didn't see any difference in performance so I just leave them polished, less friction laugh hyst dfly

 

[KokeRook]

Superd....I figured the 5.50 per can (enough to coat 3 lead ball, stick, pancake) penciled out pretty good.
the 8 lb LEAD weights at my local store $15...the "coated" weights are $35.

Granted...they don't look near as "pretty"...but...

A lot of this "messing around" is just waiting for the Rain to stop up hear in WA so I can get out fishing....Winter steelheading has be tough so far this year...so tinkering with my new obsession keeps me in "the game"...kind of. 101ok101

ROS1: Yes I read both camps that it carries just to the wire and to the raw lead ball. I figured experimenting to add to the durrability while perhaps addressing the positive ion thing...couldn't hurt.

Honestly....I assumed the 100' rule set back/depth mostly eliminated it....then again...can't hurt eliminating all the reasons for excuses

If I eliminate every possible reason that "it's not my fault"...then I can only Kick myself for lack of fish.laugh hyst

I had just heard about this stuff...apparently...nothing new.t4luil

 

[SilverBullets]

I've read of useing it or truck bed liner.... don't forget to insulate the ball from the wire.
http://www.protroll.com/books/?id=5&p_id=3

 

[KokeRook]

when I was running balls I got the plastidip from napa in the 14.5 oz can and painted it on it worked very well ( it was a pain to get off when I melted them down when making my stick weights) and was tuff even when drug on the bottom. I don't know about the spray I don't know if you can put it on as thick to make it tuff enough. but to get away from any chance of electrical interaction just run a snubber it totally isolates the ball or stick weight. also I have tried all kinds of colors and reflective tape on the balls and my ss stick weights and didn't see any difference in performance so I just leave them polished, less friction laugh hyst dfly

Oh well....Experiment....3 hours (including dry time for 4 coats) lost. At least he have a layer of protection on them.
Another great thing about this site...we can learn for our past successes, current successes, mediocre not make a differences...and in a case like this....OH Well.

At least, since I use a snubbers already(like in Dfly's picture), I can buy cheaper weights and coat them with a few bucks of rubber spray..however...will probably buy SS stick in the futrure 101ok101.


As always...thanks much guys. The learning continues laugh hyst

 

[dragonfly]

as long as you don't drag it, it will be fine. the main thing is you or your kids aren't touching raw lead and it won't be marring the boat to me it's a safty thing if the minute amounts in paint are bad, handling the pure raw material over time can't be good ether. that's why I chose trolling and downriggers and make solid SS or encapsulated stick weights. dfly

 

[SuperD]

I have to apologize, I mistook your plastidip for Tool Dip, which is more like $10 - $11/can. I used standard spray paint on my lead. I've had most of my lead powder coated now so don't even spray it anymore.

 

[Strike Zone]

Stick Weights

I have found that I just slide my stick weight into the rod holder on the Scotty Downrigger if I am moving fast somewhere. The when I start to troll I just slide it out of the rod holder and back into the water and start trolling. It never touches the boat that way. I also haven't seen any difference in the color of reflective tape I've tried on my stick weights. Now I'm using a grass green colored one and it works great. Picture shows downrigger with weight in the rod holder and also a green snubber.
Denny
GET THE NET

 

[KokeRook]

No worries at all SuperD.

Dfly: Great point on the handling of lead. Thanks you.

 

[bob r]

when I was running balls I got the plastidip from napa in the 14.5 oz can and painted it on it worked very well ( it was a pain to get off when I melted them down when making my stick weights) and was tuff even when drug on the bottom. I don't know about the spray I don't know if you can put it on as thick to make it tuff enough. but to get away from any chance of electrical interaction just run a snubber it totally isolates the ball or stick weight. also I have tried all kinds of colors and reflective tape on the balls and my ss stick weights and didn't see any difference in performance so I just leave them polished, less friction laugh hyst dfly

, I have a piece of lead you may be interested in, it is 10" x10"x3", don't know the weight offhand but can weigh it if you are at all interested.My guess is at least 30 or 40 lbs. I like your shafts of ss for trolling, wondering if you are up for a trade as my downrigger weight budget is non-existant right now. I use a 6 lb. ball on a cannon mini-troll (would be fine with one of your 5.7 lb. shafts!), also have a penn fathom-master I user on larger boats (when I can rent or borrow one!). The lead came off an electronic rack mount system for computer gear, bolted in the bottom it kept the slide out racks from tipping the whole rack system forward. It looks like pure lead to me, I've had it for 28 years since i graduated from the electronics program at Centrailia College. Let me know, Bob R P.S. I'm in Elma, WA., but get north and south on I-5 to portland and seattle somewhat reg. Hoping to fish Merwin in a month or two. I tried p.m. ing you, but your mailbox is full 'till you clean some out!(lol)

 

[dragonfly]

Bob r I cleared out my box, I am in Newberg Or. and don't get up to WA. much. all my fishing and travels are south but I do go to Portland and would be interested in the lead as long as it is the soft, the hard isn't as heavy. the scrap yard I get mine from is in Portland and they charge me 1.00 a lb for it. so we could work something out dfly