Good downrigger rod for Kokes?

[NeWcS]

Anyone have any recommendations for a downrigger rod for trolling up kokes. Im on a very tight budget so something in the $15-$30 range. Are most people using ML action rods for this? Was thinking about a Daiwa WLDR 802MLR

-Jay

 

[Old School]

Jay,

i just bought a new Diawa spinmatic casting UL. 7.5 foot. 2-8 lb test. 34.99 at FW.
I already have the 7.0 spinning model and love it. I also got a new Tika Caimen KT101 at the Expo to put on it. I cant wait to get it wet.

I think Eagle claw may make a semi appropriate fiberglass rod for around $25.

Unless you getting trophy gorge class kokes I think you'd want a rod on the light to UL side. Lots of tip whip.

Old School

 

[Gene]

pawn shops

Hello,

hey nice to know there is a nut gearing up like me !! check pawn shops, before I got my Lamiglas I was using a rod I picked up in the back corner of a pawn shop. of course look it over I.E check the eyes and what not. I priced it bought it for 25$ and it was worth 70$ also did that with my abu garcia reel 5500 c3 bought it for 35$ hardley looked used. price around 70$ I am still using it today. so just shop around, look for somthin 7 foot to 8 foot 6 check the classifieds on this sight too, im new to this sight also and the help you get is awsome.

 

[Gene]

man I need to make it to the Gorge after I get my Tica reel, see if I can put the new JJ rod to work !! you guys are lucky to live in utah... its ok the 14 plus # macks over here make up the difference !

 

[Fallriverguy]

Jay,

i just bought a new Diawa spinmatic casting UL. 7.5 foot. 2-8 lb test. 34.99 at FW.
I already have the 7.0 spinning model and love it. I also got a new Tika Caimen KT101 at the Expo to put on it. I cant wait to get it wet.

thumbsup For the money these rods are the best deal around IMHO.

 

[SuperD]

I fish a boat full of Shakespeare Agility's, $29.99 @ Fisherman's Warehouse

 

[skookum9]

I use the same rods I do for other fishing, my favorite one for trolling koke's is a GLoomis 9' 6-12# steelhead caster with a medium-fast action. I love this rod and by using the Curado on it, it will still throw a jig very nicely, as long as I don't go too light. But since you guys are on the subject I thought I would ask what you believe makes a good/great trolling rod. I'm going to guess that the length is subject to the opinions and experience of the angler but, about a 7 or 8 footer is probably the norm. What I'd like to know is do you prefer the lightweight noodle type rods that are rated 2-8#'s, or do you like a heavier, more stiff rod of the 8-15# class, or somewhere in between. Do you prefer the sensetivity of a fast action rod, or the forgiveness of a slow action, or again, somewhere in between? Since many of you are primarily troller's, I'm hoping for some good insight as to what and why you like what you like, thanks.

 

[SuperD]

For trolling, I like rods that are weak all the way to the handle. Since the speed sets the hook, no backbone required. I want to be outmatched with all the kokes I hook, even if they are 16" fish. Flaming Gorge and a few other lakes not withstanding, Kokes are a smallish, light fish and I want to feel them. This is why I'd never consider lead core for Kokanee fishing. A #4 flyrod blank is just about perfect for a great Kokanee rod.

 

[Bduck]

I've used a lot of different rods any where from a short 4-5' up to 9' with medium to heavy backbone. Leadcore on a Penn 209 reel, rubber snubbers and sometimes just plain mone line. I also have used a regular 8'6" spin cast light rod for trolling and found that to be the best. You don't need as heavy action equipment to catch fish from lakes and its a lot easier on the pocket. The Penn 209 reels are still in my arsenal and I may pass them down to a grandson at sometime. This was equipment that was affordable to me way back when. As time went on, started getting into the state of the art equipment. I, myself loves todays technology. By no means am I out buying rods & reels that take a paycheck, but able to purchase better quality equipment that still in my opinion very affordable. I know how it was to purchase and not go beyond your means. I made this equipment last for years. I have 30yr old lures still in the box and catching fish today. Some of the best deals back then and today is buying bulk & making lures, rods, etc.

 

[Fallriverguy]

I just saw the Daiwa Spinmatic at Wholesale Sports for $27.95.

 

[268bull]

My Kokanee Rods

My first rod is an old glass Wright & McGill, 2 piece, 6 & 1/2 footer, light action; My backup is a 2 piece 6 1/2 ft Garcia conolon, light action. Neither rod has let me down, I love them. Bull

 

[bkondeff]

I have not even wet a line for Kokanee yet, but as I am excited to get out and try with my new boat this year I have been looking for rods for trolling. I missed a few of the Lamiglass Kokanee Rods at Sportsmens, but I was at Cabelas getting rigged up for Steelhead(another first time attempt) I noticed some Whoopin Stik Crappie rods. They are like 8' and very flexible all the way to the handle. This seemed to meet the description many of you have preferred. They are cheap. Any opinions.

I just spent $400 on a rod, reel, and tackle for steelhead so my budget for rods/reels, tackle, and downrigger(s) will be limited so feedback would be helpful. At least my wife is interested in doing this hobby with me so I get a little less attitude.

 

[Kokaholic]

Those Crappie Whoopin sticks are a good deal and price. They will serve you well!

 

[Full_Monte]

I've been thinking about this only a couple years now. I think you can use anything that gives you a nice, noodly bow when you've tightened up your reel on the downrigger. Glass beats carbon on this. Carbon beats glass for strength IIRC. I have a $29 Shakespeare carbon rod and two red JJ Team Kokanee Lamiglas rods, rated for 2-8 lb line. Since I landed a 20lb German Brown on one of the red rods last season, I haven't spent a second wondering if my rods are strong enough for Kokanee. I really like the noodly glass rods because they make fighting a kokanee seem like you are fighting a really big fish on other gear. However, in the final analysis, I think your reel's ability to deliver a smooth, adjustable drag is probably more important than the exact rod you use.

 

[Trophy Taker]

Modified Cabelas Crappie Rod

I make some modifications to them though since they come with a really useless handle.

Here is how I do it:

Tools Needed:
Razor Knife
100 Grit Sand Paper
Two-Part Epoxy
Cabelas Crappie Rod
Broken Casting Rod
¼” Dowel
Digital Caliper
Drill
Long Drill Bit (size varies)

The first thing I do is cut off the EVO Foam but leave the rubber collar (See pic)
Sand off all the remaining glue where the foam was
Take the broken Rod and cut it off flush with the fore grip
Bore out broken rod handle with a long (10” or longer) drill bit about. The tricky part here is determining the right diameter to drill the hole as all the Cabelas rods have vastly differing rod diameters. Makes sure the hole is at least 5” beyond the real seat (toward the butt). I use the caliper to measure the diameter of the rod then only use a drill bit the same size as the largest diameter. Since the rod is tapered it works fine. Then I mix the epoxy, then use the ¼’ dowel, I slide it into the rod handle to coat the inside of the handle with epoxy. I then twist the rod blank down into the handle until I get it set and the centerline aligned with the guides. Then pull the rubber grommet down to the fore grip and using a toothpick I apply a little epoxy to retain it in place. Let dry

Cabelas Rod ($14.99)
Broken Rods (either free or very cheap $5.00 or less)

These rods are available anywhere from 7’ 6” to 12’ so you can decide what length you like best. They are extremely durable and really great when you have new Kokanee anglers on the boat or kids (as they are nearly indestructible). They have great backbone and are soft enough they provide nice parabolic action. Sorry I can't show you a pic of the finished product, my rods are in my shrink wrapped boat.

 

[skookum9]

The only thing I wonder about with all of these limp rods is the hook-set. I've used the more limber rods in the past and now use a rod with a little more backbone for a good hook-set. And yes, it made a tremendous difference in my fishing. I've not compared the two when trolling, only when jigging. Maybe I'll have to go back and try these limp rods again.

 

[TrophyBoat]

typically you have no control over the hookset while trolling for kokes, if you try to set the hook you will more than likely rip their lips off. If the fish take it off the release the rebound of the bend of your rod sets the hook, whether its good or bad you can't really control it. The sensitive(limp) rod, along with good drag system, assist in not ripping the soft lips and get the fish to the dinner table
I like:
Ugly Stik Lite® Inshore Casting Rods CAI 1170 7'0 Medium light
Very good sensitivity, good bend on the down rigger, Very durable.
and can handle the larger fish that you may stumble into trolling for kokes.
40$ buckaroos at basspro

 

[NeWcS]

So I just ordered a ML 7' Uglystick. I'm on a tight budget so I think It will do the job.

-Jay

 

[268bull]

I agree with TrophyBoat about not having any control over hookset. I prefer to have the rod in hand, one, for the adrenaline rush of feeling the strike, two, the challenge of learning the correct amount of pull on the rod to set the hook and not tear out the lips. I fish with a limp 6 1/2 ft. Wright/McGill glass rod, which I believe, let's me get a better feel for the strike. I also re-tie using a # 6 Tru-Turn Aberdeen hook. The cam in the hook is turned into the direction of the strike, which I believe contributes to better hook-set. This has been my experience at least. Seems to work well for me. thumbsup Bull

 

[SalmoTrutta]

I own a few Tica KLEA's that are great and a couple Lamiglas 792 GC UL's.
The lami's are pricey but worth every penny IMHO.