More downrigger questions

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jopes

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
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21
Location
Douglas, Wy
So I have spent plenty of time reading down rigger threads. Different weight designs, voltages, snubbers or no snubbers.

I understand how to check the voltages and what people say you should shoot for. Does the depth of your weight is down or speed effect the voltage read?

Is the voltage the same for all species of fish or do some like other voltages?

Weights? Since I have none it sounds like stick weights are the way to go for less blow back. What size weight is best, How does one know if the downrigger can handle a heavier weight?
 
jopes,
Speed and depth will effect the voltage slightly. Do you know how deep you will be fishing in your home lakes during the simmer months? This will direct my answer about size of weights required. Different fish do react positively to different voltage fields.
 
Majority of my trolling would be at the Flaming Gorge for kokanee.

There may also be some use at some other lakes for trout and walleye.

I have never targeted trolling with downriggers. Walleye I guess might be down to 40ft. As for kokanee I have seen a few posts where they were deep around 90 feet or so?
 
If the majority of the trolling will be 60' or less, which the Gorge usually is, I think that 8 lbs pipes would be sufficient. I believe that an 8 lbs pipe fishes like a 10 lbs ball due to the less resistance. A 10 lbs pipe and you could fish just about anywhere.
 
Is there any real advantage of using heavier weights? Like say a 12# over a 8 or 10? Will the 12 have less blow back?
 
That's kind of a trick question. Under certain circumstances, yes, there would be less blow back with a heavier weight but not likely to have those circumstances in koke fishing conditions. Trolling speed is under 2.0 mph, so, it isn't like blow back becomes a real problem. And for what it is worth, I've fished the Gorge for the last decade with 8 & 10 lbs pancake weights and never had any problems. Get something in this range and get out there.
 
I think I will pick up the 10# then. Seems like it would work well for everything I would do with them.

Thanks For the help!
 
I wouldn't go with 10lbs weight 6 to 8 lbs work best for me more than that and it just puts a lot more wear and tear on you stuff.
 
I use weights in both 8 & 10lb range. My styles are cannon ball, fish & stick. Geez, sounds like a meal. laugh hyst My 2 most rear downriggers I use 8lb sticks. The signature on my sonar is a thin line using these weights, unlike the heavier thick line that takes up sonar viewing. As SD mentioned stick is equivalent to 10 pound weights, less resistance depending trolling speed. On my 2 fwd downriggers I use either cannon ball or fish style which puts out no to very little sonar signature. This all depends on your transducer angle mount. Having talk to those who use 12lb+ weight feel they wanted their presentation at a more truer depth less blow back as possible. Using up to 10lbs is sufficient enough, if you can see the sonar signature of your weight you can adjust to the fish zone. 101ok101
 
I to like the fish weights , canon balls are good also, I've never tried the pole weights. I might have to do this year though
 
You want them to hang vertically. Only having an inch and a half top surface area is in part why they don't clutter the sonar screen like a big ball.
 
You want them to hang vertically. Only having an inch and a half top surface area is in part why they don't clutter the sonar screen like a big ball.

ahh, makes sense. I just ran out and grabbed some of the window weights off the side of the office. They weigh 6 lbs. I think it will work fine for spring fishing, as we are only fishing at 15-25 feet. In the summer when we are down to like 50-60 feet, i probably will still use the balls. Mabe drill em out a bit and add some lead
 

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