What do you use for a fuel additive?

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bob r

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I've had an issue with engine(see thread below) that i've resolved but I'm looking for input on stabilizers as I want to avoid problems associated with ethenol in gas. I've used the red sta-bil, people have told me to use the green marine sta-bil instead, someone else said use the mercury additive, I've got two cents and I'm looking for your opinion. I've been lucky so far due to always using relativly (1 or 2 months old) fresh gas.I'm going to find a local source for non-ethenol gas, somebody said some marinas carry it, maybe swantown or zittel's in olympia?Thanks in advance for input, Bob R
 
I've had an issue with engine(see thread below) that i've resolved but I'm looking for input on stabilizers as I want to avoid problems associated with ethenol in gas. I've used the red sta-bil, people have told me to use the green marine sta-bil instead, someone else said use the mercury additive, I've got two cents and I'm looking for your opinion. I've been lucky so far due to always using relativly (1 or 2 months old) fresh gas.I'm going to find a local source for non-ethenol gas, somebody said some marinas carry it, maybe swantown or zittel's in olympia?Thanks in advance for input, Bob R

We're running a 25hp 4 stroke and 6hp 2 stroke Yamahas and use non ethanol with Yamaha Ring Free and Sta-Bil additives.
http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=WA
 
I've used Star Tron with good results. It was recommended by a couple different boat mechanics. I don't know that it's any better than the others but it's another one to look at. It isn't cheap.
 
Bob,
I'm running Yamaha's, a 150 and T-8, and use Yamaha Ring Free Additive and Yamalube Fuel Stabilizer and Conditioner Plus every time I get fuel. It's just a fact that the fuels we are using are not getting any better for our marine engines!
 
ONLY ethanol free REAL gas. not water attracting and gets better fuel mileage. has higher energy content. Ethanol is make for drinkin' in good corn sour mash liqour, Maker's Mark. If God wanted us to burn ethanol in our engines, he would have made us all corn farmers.

http://pure-gas.org/

http://www.buyrealgas.com/

10 micron Racor
Part Number: 320RRAC01
fuel filter and water separator.
saved my butt from swimming several times from water and dirt contaminated gas from stations with dirty water contaminated bulk tanks.
it's a long way back from 50 miles out off the mouth of the Columbia River.

Marine blue Stabil if I'm going to let the gas set for more than a month. sometimes Startron.

use my own mix of acetone, toulene and MEK for carb and engine cleaner. keep the MEK to less than 1 oz per gallon. I use 1 oz of MEK to 1g.
read the MDSD on Ring Free and Seafoam. i can't afford that $50 a gallon stuff

use synthetic 2 stroke TC-W3 oil for winter engine storage fogging. molecularly attracts and sticks to metal due to the PAO/ester base. Amsoil usually
has all the antirust and lube qualitys needed.
 
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I use the marine Stabil. Cheap and easy.

I like the built in measuring cup.

LOL...is my wife turning me into a package not product consumer? U guys know what I'm talking about.

Seriously, the M cup is a nice feature.

Old School
 
Yamaha Ring Free in every tank. Ditto on the "not cheap", but worth every penny.
 
I found a pretty good Yamaha write-up on ring free on a site called the Hull Truth. Unfortunately I lost it.

The jist was it looks like good stuff, but is a system cleaner/carbon remover very similar to Techron more so then a fuel stabilizer.
 
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For those of you who are within relatively convenient driving distance to a NON-ETHANOL gas station, do yourself a favor and ONLY use NON-ETHANOL fuel, including in your cars and trucks. For those of you not, sucks to be you, sorry.

Sea Foam is the most effective additive I've seen operate, as a mechanic, I've used many different products, Sea Foam is the only additive that I've used that you can actually see emulsify the water in fuel (clear fuel filter) and make it usable through a carburetor.

For those of you who are using NON-ETHANOL fuel AND use any given product (Sea Foam, STA BIL, etc.) every time you fill your tank, you're getting suckered.

If at the end of the season you filled your tank, added Sea Foam, ran the motor long enough to make sure it ran through all the fuel system, then sealed everything up and parked it, you should have little to no trouble starting it the next opening season.
Opening season comes around, you take it out the first time, assuming it starts and runs fine, you should run your tank to as low as possible (better yet, suck it dry), fill it back up with NON-ETHANOL fuel, add the appropriate amount of Sea Foam for that tankful and not ever have to add anything else until the end of the season again.
Why?! Because you're using a fuel that DOES NOT attract water, and just because the boat is ON the water, it doesn't substantially attract any more water than your car or truck.
I will fill my fuel tank many times this season, but not add any more Sea Foam, because my fuel tank will not have a long enough duration to attract any substantial water.

STOP WASTING YOUR MONEY ON ADDITIVES EVERY TIME YOU FILL UP.

IF, I said IF, I had to use ETHANOL fuel I would add the correct amount of Sea Foam every other fill up and definitely at the end of the season, but not every time.
 

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