Warning! Polycrylic

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ReelJerks

ReelJerks

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Dec 2, 2009
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I've been using this product by MINWAX as a top coat over my UV paints for the past two years or so. In my preparation to repaint some flashers and s/blades I dumped a bunch into a DAWN and hot water solution to remove all traces of Pro-Cure. That simple solution ate the finish. Now I must strip the blades back to bare brass before I repaint.....no biggie.
afterdawn.gif


Just passing it on.

Edd
 
Its amazing how DAWN works. I'm a mechanic and when my work shirts get stained with oil, my wife will put a little DAWN on them and they come clean. She use to trash the shirts. To take the finish off of your blades like that is awesome especially if your going to repaint blades. Nice safe accidental find. worthy12
 
MMM said:
Wow! I'm a wood guy and was unaware Minwax made a sealer for metal . . .
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Works great on painted brass/nickle. How does the 'TOP COAT' know what is under the paint that is on top of the primer that is on top of the adhesion promoter? Actually I used this product because it was what my paint manufacturer recommended. But do you think the only problem is not the DAWN Don? Caution! Damage will occur if trolling through any DAWN treated water.
Two years of heavy usage without incident, then the DAWN 101shock1101

Edd
 
Sorry, I was just trying to figure out how a finish could fail with dish soap. Lately we've been working through a lot of topcoat and under coat failures when using a UV coat or UV paint base. The chemicals in the UV are highly reactant!
 
Don I did all these B4 I started with an airbrush so they are for the most part Bulldog base coated, then acrylic painted, highlighted with tape or 'brushed on' paint, then top/seal coated with the Polycrylic. No issues...'badda-bing, badda-bang' until the soak in Dawn, then 'badda-boom'! It was my laziness I suppose. Had I simply hand washed individuals, and not group soaked I would have been fine. I'll continue to use Dawn but not in such an industrial manner.

What brand paints (UV) are you using? I was thinking of using Createx or AutoAir brands, but if there is a problem I may stick with what I have, if thinning the UV's down won't take away from the desired effect.

Edd
 
UV Blast is acetone base and melts plastics beads. I ruined a few paintjobs on a blade with UV Blast. I've tried Bulldog and House of Kolors (AP01) I like the AP01 alot better than because it doesn't shrink. It pulls away from the edges of the blade.

Createx is the best airbrush paint out there.
 
Bug_Spin_Dokta said:
UV Blast is acetone base and melts plastics beads. I ruined a few paintjobs on a blade with UV Blast. I've tried Bulldog and House of Kolors (AP01) I like the AP01 alot better than because it doesn't shrink. It pulls away from the edges of the blade.

Createx is the best airbrush paint out there.
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Taking your time into account, is it cheaper to paint the beads or just buy the UV beads from others like Radical Glow? Seems like painting 5mm beads would waste a bit of paint.

Edd
 
My approach to beads is to buy 4,000 white beads at Michael's and start stringing them on a piece of mono. I use standard $3.99 spray paint in multi colors for a set of beads and then finish with some UV Blast. I've had no problems at all. The price is so much cheaper than Radical Glow. I buy the Radical Glow for my glow beads and alternate glow beads with UV beads on most of my spinners for contrast.
 
SuperD said:
My approach to beads is to buy 4,000 white beads at Michael's and start stringing them on a piece of mono. I use standard $3.99 spray paint in multi colors for a set of beads and then finish with some UV Blast. I've had no problems at all. The price is so much cheaper than Radical Glow. I buy the Radical Glow for my glow beads and alternate glow beads with UV beads on most of my spinners for contrast.
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+1 I start with pearl beads from Michael's and also buy my glow beads from Radical Glow. The process works well as Dave describes.
 
MMM said:
+1 I start with pearl beads from Michael's and also buy my glow beads from Radical Glow. The process works well as Dave describes.
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Got it. I was thinking, from BSD's post it was a real problem using the UV Blast on plastic. Don have you tried dipping the pearl beads into Spike-It Dip N Glow? Offers an interesting result under the blacklight.

Edd
 
Dipping anything in that stuff is precarious. It disolves soft plastics like acid. Dips have to be very fast and I could see where beads might deform or stick together if dipped in multiples. Tweezers and single bead dips would probably work okay.
 
RJ, painting beads? NO THANKS. I've done a few re-paints with UV BLAST and plastic beads has a bad reaction to UV BLAST due to acetone.

UV BLAST is a marketing SCAM in my opinion. There hasn't been any scientific proof about UV on lures. From what i've been told UltraViolet Light dissapears in less than 2' of water :-/
 
Bug_Spin_Dokta said:
UV BLAST is a marketing SCAM in my opinion. There hasn't been any scientific proof about UV on lures. From what i've been told UltraViolet Light dissapears in less than 2' of water :-/
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'The first part of the answer came in a scientific article published by Duke University researchers under the authority of Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute. That article states, “it has been conservatively estimated that there is sufficient ultraviolet light for vision down to 200 meters (700 feet) in clear ocean water”. Other scientific articles report there is sufficient ultraviolet light transmission to support ultraviolet vision for up to one half mile in clear water. So in summary, I was reading quality scientific research articles that were reporting that ultraviolet traveled through water at least 700 feet and maybe as much as 2,500 feet before it was absorbed, unlike visible light which is completely absorbed in the first 40 feet.'

You may wish to read the rest of the scientific data by Milan Jeckle, M.D. @ http://www.1a-fly-fishing.com/howfowasdiby.html

There is some good stuff out there.

Edd
 

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