Downrigger weight snubbers

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Sportfishinsteve said:
I agree that you need to coat your weights. My positive output was all over the place until I coated mine. You can do it with spray on bed liner stuff. Works great and enables you to dial in the black box. thumbsup
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I live in Central Ca. What is the best place to buy spray on bed liner?
Thanks
Jim
 
It doesn't need to be spray on as you probably couldn't justify to buy the sprayer. Look at your Kragens or NAPA Auto. Some have it in quart cans and a vinyl roller to apply it.
 
Petty4life said:
I desided against the snubbers. kokaholic got them and when i fish out of his boat i take them off my side of the boat
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I've been useing the snubbers since I started koke fishing. We have Scotty manuals and I use the snubber to lower the ball into the water, and when taking it out...instead of trying to bend over to grab the ball or grabbing ahold of the downrigger cable. They also take some of the shock when you drag the bottom. Why did you decide against them?
 
I have had the oppertunity to use them a few times on my boat since I picked them up. I really like what they are intended to do. HOWEVER, What I dislike is that when I use the draw string retreiver to retrieve the weight up so that I can hook my line into the release, The clip comes up and hits into the retriever sleeve that the line slides through and makes it so that I can not pull the weight up to grab ahold of the release. if I pull it up as far as I can, This also causes the weight to then sway back and forth slamming into the boat and causeing dings and scratches on the boat.

SOOOOOOOOO, I think for now I will be taking them off and storeing them away to try when I have a diffrent boat down the road where they might change tihings a little.
 
i have run 200 pound test on 2 of my cannon mag 10's and have had mixed results. the catch rate is about 50/50, wire to power pro. there is no "hum" with the power pro and alot less blow back.
 
I've use these for one year now. do they get weak after a certain time? I'd hate to lose my weight because of a weakened snubber.
 
Certainly not in a year. I think I paid about $8 for my snubbers, so, maybe do a pull test on them next season and see how they are doing. I would think they are probably more susceptible to UV damage than fatigue failure.
 
I have since gone back to using mine. What I did to fix the problems I had before was to take my clips off the rigger weight and attach them to the cable just above the weight. This allws for me to keep the weight in the water and easier to attach everything with the stacker clips rather than directly to the weight.
 
Full_Monte said:
Read this thread:

http://www.kokaneefishingforum.com/fishing-forums/showthread.php?t=273&highlight=black

It's about catching fish due to the electrical charge on the metal on your boat and downrigger wire.
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Is a black box really needed? I was thinking on getting one, but there are other things I would rather spend a couple hundred dollars on. Would switching to braided line get rid of the negative charge? Or would you still get one from the boat? Would a longer setback help mabe?
 
terek,
No, a black box isn't mandatory. Just another tool in the arsenal. If you have a hot boat, it becomes more important to either eliminate the cause of the hot boat or get the black box to help over come it. Braid does help eliminate charge. I do not think longer set backs really help.
 
SuperD said:
terek,
No, a black box isn't mandatory. Just another tool in the arsenal. If you have a hot boat, it becomes more important to either eliminate the cause of the hot boat or get the black box to help over come it. Braid does help eliminate charge. I do not think longer set backs really help.
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Is there a way to measure if you have a hot boat? I could see it being a problem with aluminum boats, but i got a fiberglass boat, with manual downriggers. If that makes a difference. Sorry for the noob questions. Just got to a point in my life last year where I can afford toys like boats and stuff. I was always the mate, never the skipper, so Im still figuring out all the ins and outs with running a boat.
 
Yes, "hot boat" is kind of a broad term and can apply to a fiberglass boat with the downrigger wire cutting water that creates a charge. Very simple to measure the next time you are out and lines are down. Take a multi meter and put the black lead to a ground and the red lead to the downrigger cable. That should register a voltage reading in the .5v to .6v, + or minus. At .7 or higher, you are registering toward being hot. .65v happens to be the theoretical sweet spot for making Kokanee excited to strike.
 

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