New product specifically for kokes

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I think Pro Troll sells them directly as well. The science is good. It makes a huge difference to those especially with a "hot" boat. The first thing to do is to get a voltage meter and set it on 12 volts. Put the red lead on your down rigger wire and the black lead onto the hull of your boat if it's aluminum and if your boat is glass put the black lead onto the negative post of your battery. If you read .75 volts or higher you have a hot boat and your Down Rigger Wires could be pushing fish out of your trolling pattern. The cause of this can be bad wiring, grounding wires to the aluminum hull, a big no no as it can cause galvanic corrosion where the current eats up your boat, bad or corroded zincs on your outboard motors or boat hull as well as other problems. If you are at .75 or under then it comes down to having a reading that actually attracts fish. I posted a list earlier but here it is again. You should check your readings periodically throughout the day as they will change with the change in mineral content in the water which varies from location to location in the same lake.

SPECIES VOLTAGE
Chinook (King) Salmon .600 volts
Coho (Silver) Salmon .650 volts
Sockeye Salmon .750 volts
Kokanee Salmon .650 volts (Mine .58)
Halibut .450 volts *
Macs .650 volts
Rainbow & Brown Trout .650 volts
Cutthroat Trout .650 volts

I tend to like voltages slightly less than Pro Trolls listed voltages. 101idea101

This may be a stupid question but can the voltage check be performed out of the water (in my driveway)? I'd like to know my situation before I go out the next time and possibly take corrective action.
Thanks,
Bob
 
Sorry. You have to have the DR Wires in water to check the voltage. Also be aware that the voltage may change from one end of the lake to the other as well as different times of day and it will definitely change on different lakes. It has to do with the conductivity of the mineral percentages in the water. I take a reading every hour.
 
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