Walker mini laker or other portable downriggers?

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WYCOangler

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Joined
Mar 21, 2018
Messages
12
Location
Greeley, Colorado
Even though I did really well last year fishing for kokanee with snap weights, I am thinking I might want to give a downrigger a try. The lake I fish most only has a max depth of 50 feet or so, and we were able to reach the kokes in July and August when they were down 30 to 40 feet on sonar. A couple other lakes are above 9000 feet and the fish don't seem to go too deep in summer. I am not needing to fish depths of 100+ feet and I also fish for other species and use other techniques where a downrigger is not needed. For these reasons and wanting to keep cost down, i am considering a portable clamp on downrigger. The Walker mini laker gets great reviews and can handle a heavier ball weight (6 pounds) than the Scotty and Cannon portables. Does anybody have any experience with the Walker?

How about the Cannon mini troll? The reviews for the Cannon are not as good. Some complain about it breaking and falling apart on them but other guys seem to really like it. It is a little cheaper but it is also only rated for a 4 pound ball. Maybe that is enough for my purposes? Cannon indicates the mini troll should be used on the transom pointing straight out the back and not off the sides of the boat in order to avoid stressing and cracking the boom. Due to my boat's configuration I need my downrigger off the side of the boat. I have seen plenty of videos of guys using the Cannon this way though.

Have also looked at the Scotty depthmaster 1050 and Cannon Easi Troll. Both can handle more weight but are also more expensive and would require permanent mounts. The Scotty looks like it would require an expensive pedestal mount to clear my gunnels or an expensive clamp mount to function as a portable.

I would really appreciate any reviews or suggestions folks may have. Thanks!
 
I have run my mini troll for probably 10 years with a 6lb ball with no signs of cracking or stress. I run ball trolls off it most of the time, so I'm running at max stress with no issues. I run it off the side because the transom on my boat is too thick even with the slide off plate removed from the downrigger. Like you, my main kokanee lake is only 50' deep and most of my fishing is done at depths less than 40 feet. I don't find too taxing to wind it up so overall I've been very satisfied with mine. Here is what I have learned over the years. Remember to put it on before you launch if you have to remove the slide plate to get it over the gunnel - I've lost a few trying to put mine on while on the water. Fortunately they are available on line and pretty cheap. Pay attention to the tension screw on top - set it like your reel drag so it will pay out if you snag, but don't let it get so loose it comes all the way off (also available on line and cheap). I use a snubber on my ball and switched the cable out to braid so I don't have to listen to it hum. Check to see if you need to use blocks on one or both sides of the clamp so you can snug it down and figure out if you need something between the gunnel (on top) and the clamp to keep it from rocking side to side while you wind it in.
 
Thanks SuperDaveMT! That is exactly the type of information I was hoping for. I really appreciate it. The mini trolls are easier to find around here and less expensive than other portables too. Good to know that it can handle a 6 lb ball too just like the Walker. Did you ever use the 4 lb ball that the Cannon accessory kit comes with? I am wondering if blowback is too severe even when only fishing 40 to 50 feet deep?
 
Thanks SuperDaveMT! That is exactly the type of information I was hoping for. I really appreciate it. The mini trolls are easier to find around here and less expensive than other portables too. Good to know that it can handle a 6 lb ball too just like the Walker. Did you ever use the 4 lb ball that the Cannon accessory kit comes with? I am wondering if blowback is too severe even when only fishing 40 to 50 feet deep?
I agree with everything Super D said, used one for years without issues, although be careful of over tightening the mounting bolt, you can break the body if overtightened. When we bought ours it came with a 4 lb. ball, but said it could be used with an 8lb. ball. We use a 6 generally, 4 lb. does give more blowback, braid helps with that. Using it just off the transom was not mentioned either. They must have had problems to make these changes. Also shuttle hawks work very well with these units. Having a new boat with
electric scotty's is sure a nice change from cranking that mother up from 50 ft. or more! Bob R
 
Thanks for the help BobR! I really appreciate it. Maybe cranking the mini troll will build up my arms, give me some "guns"? I think I am going to give the mini troll a try to see what I think about this whole downrigger thing. Maybe one or two mini trolls is all I will need for a while. Knowing me, I will like it and then will be looking to upgrade. I have been reading about the Shuttle Hawk. I will have to pick up one of those too.
 
I have been using a Walker clamp-on downrigger for several years without any problems. I would definitely look into either buying or making a shuttle hawk. They are easy to make and I have used them without too much problems down to 65 ft. It is very nice not having to crank up the weight all the time. I also switched to braided line. I have used weights from 4 to 6 pounds.
 
Perfect, thanks H2OGuy! Cabela's carries both the Cannon and Walker clamp-on downriggers, and I have Cabela's gift cards. I just have to decide which one I want. I appreciate the info.
 
the mini type down riggers are clamp on only ,so if you boat doesn't have that kind of edge they will be a mounting issue , plenty of good choices for manual riggers with conventional mounting for boats with regular gun walls. either way you will enjoy them so much you will be looking to upgrade as soon as you can .
 
I agree with MtnCat1 - I started with the clamp on and when I upgraded from a scanoe to a crestliner Canadian I found a good deal on an electric cannon on ebay. It's nice because if I need to raise the balls quickly, I can hit the up button on the electric and wind up the clamp on. To me, the best part of the downrigger is being able to troll behind ball trolls attached directly to the dr ball and not have the extra weight and resistance of a dodger or pop gear.
 
I did find a heavy duty clamp years ago made of aluminum with 2 clamping bolts on it and it was drilled out for a downrigger base to be screwed into it, but never used it as a larger downrigger on the canoe was not practical. Now I have a larger boat with 2 scotty electrics, so it sits. Bob R
 
the mini type down riggers are clamp on only ,so if you boat doesn't have that kind of edge they will be a mounting issue , plenty of good choices for manual riggers with conventional mounting for boats with regular gun walls. either way you will enjoy them so much you will be looking to upgrade as soon as you can .

Thanks mtncat1. I do have the type of gunwales that a clamp mount will work on. I will give it a try. I am sure I will like it and soon will be upgrading. Keep the clamp DR as a spare or second DR.
 
I agree with MtnCat1 - I started with the clamp on and when I upgraded from a scanoe to a crestliner Canadian I found a good deal on an electric cannon on ebay. It's nice because if I need to raise the balls quickly, I can hit the up button on the electric and wind up the clamp on. To me, the best part of the downrigger is being able to troll behind ball trolls attached directly to the dr ball and not have the extra weight and resistance of a dodger or pop gear.

That is another reason why I would like to try a DR; using light tackle and not a bunch of extra weight on my line so I can enjoy the fight of the kokanee. Although, we have been able to do that so far on the primary lake we fish. Sometimes just snap weights and a wedding ring spinner (no attractors) is all we need for a good day. We did use small dodgers at times last year and I also used the 2-blade flash lite troll on an UL rod. I liked that; it worked well and drag was not bad and I was able to enjoy the fight.
 
I did find a heavy duty clamp years ago made of aluminum with 2 clamping bolts on it and it was drilled out for a downrigger base to be screwed into it, but never used it as a larger downrigger on the canoe was not practical. Now I have a larger boat with 2 scotty electrics, so it sits. Bob R

I looked at the Scotty Depthmaster 1050 and was interested in it. It looks that in order for it to clear my gunwales, I would need a pedestal mount or a clamp mount like you described. Scotty has both on their website but just the darn mounts are close to $70 each, half the price of the entire downrigger!
 
Scotty

Scotty has a model 1073 Laketroller that does not clamp the boat but rather is installed into any Scotty rod mount. I have been considering using it on my kayak.
 
In the past I have used both the Cannon and Scotty mini downriggers. I recently upgraded to Scotty 1050s and am very glad I did. I made my own mounts that use the factory oar locks and they are working better than I had hoped. I simply welded a bolt to a steel plate and mounted the Scotty slide lock mount to the plate. Using lock washers and a handle bolt I can swivel the downrigger in for rigging then swing it out for fishing.
IMG_2511.jpgIMG_2000.jpgIMG_2491.jpgIMG_2497.jpg
 
Thanks Robert48. Looks like you have a good setup there. I am still thinking about the Scotty 1050. I will need to get a pedestal mount base so the arm will clear my gunnels or just purchase the Scotty clamp mount that is designed to go with the 1050.
 

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